Water Pressure

[Mark Bodenhamer]

When connected to city water the inside water pressure starts off good then drops.  It drops fast.  When using tank water and the pump, the flow rate is fine.  I checked/cleaned all the aerators and filters on the faucets.  It's not that.  The pressure regulator is at 55/psi.  All the screens looked cool.  I measured the flow rate from the hose and filter which was 5.6/gpm.  Inside the coach, I removed the cold water hose from the faucet, using that as the source to test the flow rate in the coach got 1.1/gpm.  Got about the same from the faucet when I reconnected the cold water.  Taking into assumption that modern faucets flow at 1.8/gpm I don't expect the 5.6/gpm.  Would be nice though.  Where am I loosing the pressure?  How do I fix it?  It would be nice to take a shower and actually get wet in a timely manner.

[Steve Huber Co-Admin]

Mark,
It sounds like the shore water supply pressure regulator may be failing, assuming you have constant pressure at the shore hookup. Not sure where it is located on your coach but many are right behind the shore water inlet. The loss of pressure just after turn on could also be caused by debris in the line but doubtful as you've checked all the filters.
Steve

[Carl Boger]

On my coach the shore water pressure regulator is directly behind the water inlet.  It is not visible without removing the mounting board.  That is where I would start.  With the mounting board loose you could check for water pressure/ flow at that point.

[Bill Lampkin]

Here is the water pressure regulator I used last summer. Seemed to be a bit more flow in the shower.

https://www.etrailer.com/RV-Fresh-Water/JR-Products/37204-62425.html?feed=npn

[Mark Bodenhamer]

My gut was telling me that there was something going on behind the hose connection.  On the water inlet there are four screws holding it.  Should I start by removing them?  We live in this thing don't wanna mess up the water source.  I think I'll fill the tank before I go messing around.  Can the internal regulator be bypassed or removed? 

[Frank Bergamo]

Mark,
try removing the screws on front of regulator. Once free it hopefully will have enough slack to pull out far enough to get to fitting on back of regulator to remove water line. Once water line is free, reinstall new regulator in reverse order. If that does not work, you will have to access back side to get to fitting. Here is a new one. https://www.wholesalemarine.com/shurflo-pressure-regulating-fresh-water-fill-wall-mount.html?gclid=EAIaIQobChMI2Irw1JO47QIVkzytBh0NogFwEAQYAyABEgIgifD_BwE#&gid=1&pid=image-0  Hope this helps.

[Steve Huber Co-Admin]

Mark,
Do not remove the regulator w/o replacing it. Park water pressures vary greatly and the last thing you need is to blow an internal line. "Murphy" will make sure it is in an inaccessible spot 
Steve

[Bill Lampkin]

You can replace your inlet pressure regulator ( I would) with an external one like the one in my post above-It screws right onto the hose bib at the campground. Not only will this protect the motorhome, but it'll keep your water hose from excess campground water pressure. I usually hook up a brass 'y' with shutoff valves to the hose bib; on one side I fit a small pressure gauge (they have a garden hose connection for use in checking home irrigation systems, find them at Home Depot) and on the other side I put the external pressure regulator, water filter, and finally the hose connection to the motorhome. Surflo and others make city water inlets just like the one you have but minus the pressure regulator. More often than not, you will only find high water pressure at campgrounds in the mountains.

[Mark Bodenhamer]

I use this Renator M11-0660R Water Pressure Regulator Valve. Brass Lead-free Adjustable Water Pressure Reducer with Gauge for RV Camper, and Inlet Screened Filter https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01N7JZTYX/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glc_fabc_FjfZFbP06GMAK religiously so I’m not to concerned about having an internal regulator. Tomorrow I’ll dig out the screwdriver and see what’s up. I truly appreciate the advice. I’ll let y’all know why I find. Thanks again for the help.

[Keith Moffett]

The Beaver usualy comes with a regulator built into the city water connection which I believe is the one Steve is refering to .
We had to replace the one in our '02 Marquis and it made all the difference.  I dont trust them on their own and so will continue using an external one as well.
Also, BCS has them or did.

[Fred Brooks]

    Mark,
  These city water connections have a built in pressure regulator and they fail on a regular basis. Especially in Arizona with all the "dissolved" minerals clogging up the works. Pretty easy to replace. Fred

[Mark Bodenhamer]

Ordered one today.  I should have it installed Tuesday/Wednesday.  I truly appreciate all the help.  I'll post how it goes.

[Jim Walker]

Previous to this thread I did not know there was a built in water pressure valve. On our last trip a couple of weeks ago we experienced a drop in water pressure. After inspecting mine I decided to replace it. I have always used a valve attached between the hose and the inlet. the question comes to mind, with the built in valve is it necessary to have the extra one as well? With two in place would there be any less water pressure? In other words is having two redundant or adding another layer of protection?

[Bill Lampkin]

I would replace the water inlet pressure regulator with one that does not have the pressure regulator. But now the onus is on you to use your hose bib mounted regulator. BTW, easier to fix/replace the hose bib regulator than one behind the water inlet panel. Just a thought.

[Fred Brooks]

   Bill,
 I agree with your suggestion, however when you remove the existing Shurflo inlet you are left with a 3 1/2" hole in the stainless finish panel. I guess you could make a 5" by 5" cover piece if you had access to 304 stainless. I finally decided just to replace it. Even so, some RV parks have such regulated water pressure I just use my water pump with its 55 psi. Fred