What do you think this could be? Thanks guys!

[Andrew Shoen]

So.... not 10 minutes after leaving, I am idling at a stop light, and she just quits running. I shift to N, turn off the ignition and she cranks back up. Running pretty much the same, so I figure we are good to go.....
Well, about 10 minutes later doing about 45, she quits, dash lights come one, and MPH gauge is going from O back to 45, and the RPM is jumping also. Shift to N, turn off ignition, and fire her back up, shift to D and keep truckin on.
On my 8 hour drive to Bend Oregon yesterday, this happened 4 times. Not up any steep grade fortunately!
As I am checking at the park, I shift to N, and idle. Things are fine. I turn on the fan on the dash, and idle for another 20 seconds and then she quits. Fire her back up call it a night.
Before my trip I was loading up and I fired up the generator. I then turned on the AC and a minute later the gen died. I thought that was a little concerning.
I have NO IDEA what is causing this other than I think it is electrical (thanks Captain Obvious).
Have you had this happen to you. Was it a relay or what?
The good news is I have an appointment with Beaver Coach next week for fluids and filters, plus to replace the custom made side radiator grille previously damaged, so I can have them look at this.
If you have any troubleshooting ideas, I want to hear them!
Thanks for the help

[Eric Maclean]

Andrew
It would appear you have a power feed issue to both the engine and the gen set both of these items are feed 12 volt power from the chassis battery and your problem is likely a bad connection .
It could be anything from a bad or dirty connection at the chassis batteries or a bad battery disconnect
In a 2006 I believe you have a rear PCB ( printed circuit board) where the main battery feeds run through I'd check all those connections as well as all the heavy battery cable connections for something loose.
You may find discolouration at the bad connection from heat build up and or green corosion caused by the bad connection


Hope this helps and good luck
Eric

[Joel Ashley]

Although a plugged fuel filter is a good possibility, the involvement of the generator does point toward a poor battery circuit connection, as Eric points out.  Check the clear bowl under the primary filter for a large amount of dark flotsam, an indication of dirty fuel or algal growth in the fuel tank.

Obviously, check all chassis battery post fitments.  Even green/white corrosion could be diminishing adequate current flow, but simple insecure cables are a common cause of similar issues.  Also use a meter to check the SOC (state of charge) of the chassis set with and without the engine running, in case there’s an alternator or belt system problem.  That said, your ability to start up while on the road likely negates charging maladies.  Track down the ground cable chassis connection and see that it’s tight against clean metal.

The ignition solenoid in the electrical bay, streetside frontmost, is also an all too common troublemaker, such that many of us carry a spare.  You can check both sides of it (large posts) for voltage with the ignition key ON, but inconsistent operation due to burned or corroded points inside may not immediately provide it to be the definitive cause of your problems.  BCS may be able to declare it viable or not.  The generator starts (theoretically on your coach) off the chassis set, but doesn’t depend on the ignition switch being on to work, so it’s power circumvents the solenoid, a hint that maybe it’s not the problem.  But check for secure connections all around there anyway.

Joel

[Carl Boger]

Andrew,

On my MH it will not try to start every couple of years, and it has been the wiring connection that is behind the electrical panel below the drivers seat.  Where the two wiring harnesses plug into each other looses contact for whatever reason and it will not start.  I can flex the two plugs and that will get it going again. 

When this happens I generally pull the plugs apart and spray them with contact cleaner.  I will also get a jet cleaning set or a mig welding tip cleaning set and gently rough up the inside of the female plug side.  I put dielectric grease around the plug and then attach them back together firmly securing them with a zip tie or two.

Hopefully your problem will be as simple as this.

[Eric Maclean]

Andrew
If you look at page 15 in the 2006 Monterey wiring diagrams in coach assist you will see the chassis battery positive goes from the battery to the battery disconnect and from there to a buss bar where both the gen set and the engine are feed from as well as several other things.
It would be between the buss bar and the battery.
Also don't forget to check the battery grounds as they are as important to the circuit as the positive feeds.
The chassis battery ground runs from the battery negative to the back of the starter and from there to the chassis frame.

Eric