Types of brakes for towing

[Keith Moffett]

We are setting up a Ford Explorer for towing.  We will be using a Roadmaster tow bar and would like to know what people feel is a good brake system.  The Explorer weighs about 5K pounds and so needs brakes unlike the Saturn we had.
So, who has an opinion and why?

Also, the Explorer neutral tow kit requires the key to be in the 'off' position but not locked.  This gives power to some parts of the electronics.  Is there a fuse to be pulled?  The owners manual doesnt cover this modification.

Thanks for your ideas
Keith

[Gerald Farris]

Keith,
I use the M&G tow brake, I love the system for several reasons. The system is very reasonably priced and I installed it myself on my Jeep Grand Cherokee in about an hour. The system stays on the toad and it is unnoticeable when driving the toad. It gives totally proportional braking on the toad and it only activates when the coach brakes are applied, so it will not burn-up the toad brakes. Finally the hook-up and disconnect time is about 2 seconds.

The M&G system does not fit all vehicles and installation time varies between vehicles so it may not be the best solution for you, however if you have one you will love it also.

Your question about pulling fuses will probably need to be answered by Ford because pulling the wrong fuse may negate the advantage of the key being left on in the toad.

Gerald  

[Jeff Watt]

Keith,

I don't know what year your Explorer however I have a 2006 model with the neutral tow switch. I am using a US Gear system.

I do not pull any fuses, simply go through the procedure to activate the neutral switch (which places the transfer case in neutral) and go. There is a 12v feed from the coach to the Explorer to keep the battery charged. I do start it especially after a long day to ensure it starts   and then to run the engine/ transmission fluid for a few minutes. The unit has worked without issue, and yes the ignition has to be in the first position to allow the steering wheel to move. I have a dummy key that I use; it doesn't have the chip in it, so while it can turn the ignition switch it can't start the explorer - just something in case some decided they would like to borrow it.

The 2011 and newer Explorers do not need the neutral tow switch as they can be flat towed as shipped.

Jeff

[Keith Moffett]

All good information so far, Thanks to Gerald (as always )

Jeff, ours is also a 2006 Explorer.  I would be interested to know how you ran the 12 V feed and how it ties into the battery with what connectors and or diodes.  This is our first experience in setting up the tow car from scratch.  Add to that we bought an Explorer that has a few problems (surprises) so I am having some sticker shock.
Are you using a Roadmaster tow bar and what kind?
Keith

[Keith Moffett]

A part I have forgotten to mention in starting this thread is the difference in braking systems.  Ours is air / hydraulic and may not work with all air braking systems.
Keith

[Steve Jewell]

Keith,
   I have an old SMI model TMAA brake controller. It looks like it is new - work fine - had very little use. You can have it if you want it just pay the shipping.

Steve Jewell
      

[Joel Ashley]

We tow an Explorer Limited 4x4 with a Falcon All-Terrain, and use Roadmaster's Brakemaster.  Not an iota of a problem with the Brakemaster system.  Sometimes the towbar is hairy to crack loose upon disconnect if the car is at a strong angle or grade;  even the so-called anti-bind lever release system can be stubborn.  But the Brakemaster and neutral tow kit work okay for us.  You just have to remember to double check the parking brake is released, as with any tow system, and make sure the car windows are closed, cuz in the recent spell of heat I often forget, then have to undo the neutral tow settings to get the ignition switch to the "ON" position, roll windows up, and reset the tow.

Joel

[Keith Moffett]

Joel
We just got the Explorer back with the new neutral tow switch.  We tried out the switch a couple times to see that it worked.  The vehicle sat overnight in park and now the battery went dead.  First time there has been any trouble with it and it wasnt low, it was so dead it lost all the settings.  I take it this hasnt happened to you due to the neutral tow switch?

What year 'Limited'?

Thanks for the input
Keith

[Joel Ashley]

No, Keith, the neutral tow switch shouldn't run a battery down, and never has ours.  The only thing ever really on is the little yellow indicator lamp, and it goes out after awhile if the doors are closed.

Check back with the Ford dealer that installed you're switch.  Ours is a 1997, and switch installed in 2006.

Joel

[Keith Duner]

Just to throw out another option, we've used a Brake Buddy Vantage Select for several years on two different tows with good luck.  First was a Saturn Aura (had to pull one fuse) and now the wife's 08 Chevy Trailblazer (no fuses to pull).  The Trailblazer is about 4400 lbs but it's Easy Peasy to set up.  Blue Ox Aventa tow bar and base plate package.

[Jeff Watt]

Re-visiting this thread as I am contemplating changing my 06 Explorer to a new(er) 11-13 model.

I currently have the US Gear system (Roadmaster) and it works well - or no complaints. The only thing about it is the way it is installed the solenoid pulls the cable attached to the brake pedal - this works well BUT because my 06 (and a new one) has adjustable pedals, I have to be aware to not move the pedals or use the memory settings as this put the brake pedal in the wrong spot for proper operation.

For $ sake I am thinking of moving the brake system from the old to the new, but I am wondering what others think of the air type systems. The M&G does not fit newer Explorers.

Jeff

[Steve Huber Co-Admin]

Jeff,
I've installed "Toad Stops" on both my Jeeps (Wrangler and Liberty) and am very pleased with their performance. The system is totally passive as you don't have to do anything to enable it once it's installed. The only item inside the passenger compartment is the cable that runs from the firewall to the brake pedal (so you will have to ensure the pedal is at a fixed position when towing). The only "extra" cable between the RV and toad is the break-away cable. The electrical cable can be included in your standard 7 pin light cable. The system provides proportional braking and only applies the toad brakes when the it is pushing against the RV. Installation is fairly straight forward with clear instructions provided. Since most of the system is electrical, you can place the components almost anywhere under the hood.  I've had my systems for 7 and 4 years respectively with no problems.
Hope this helps.
Steve

[LEAH DRAPER]

I am REAL happy with my SMI Air Force One Braking system.  

[Larry Fisk]

I also have the SMI Air Force One system and love it. Installation was not done by me though, I had a shop do it. It was more involved than I cared to tackle.

[Jeff Watt]

Steve,

The system you have appears to be much like what I have now; I'd like to move away from the cable attached to the brake pedal so the pedal/ seat memory settings can be accessed by other family drivers.

Larry and Leah, I have been thinking of the Airforce 1 setup as one less electrical connection is a good thing in my opinion - I had problems with a loose connection in a the cable/plug-in which resulted in intermittent failure of either lights or brake function in the toad.

Jeff