Author Topic: Roof Report  (Read 10817 times)

Edward Buker

  • Guest
Roof Report
« on: April 30, 2013, 03:26:58 PM »
It has been three years since we painted our roof with the Rustoleum Marine Deck Paint. I said that I would keep tabs on how it has performed and report back on the forum.

We were doing our spring cleaning here, getting ready to hit the road for summer, so I was up pressure washing and scrubing the roof yesterday and shot a couple of photos.

Verdict...Paint is still in excellent condition with no issues, pressure washing and a scrub once or twice a year and we are good to go. This paint does not chaulk which has been great....

Later Ed

John Padmore

  • Guest
Re: Roof Report
« Reply #1 on: April 30, 2013, 03:35:46 PM »
I am very glad to hear that since I just received 4 quarts yesterday! Thanks for the pictures, they look great 8)

John

Stan Simpson

  • BAC Member
  • *
  • Posts: 786
  • Thanked: 202 times
  • One mile South of the Cheddar Curtain
Re: Roof Report
« Reply #2 on: April 30, 2013, 04:54:42 PM »
On another forum, I was advised not to use a pressure washer on the coach. The logic being the pressure would loosen Dicor and other sealants around a/c and air vents, etc. What say you?

Thank you,

Stan
Stan Simpson & Becky Glover & Moe the cat
2005 Monterey Laguna IV
C9 400 Cat
Honda CRV toad

John Padmore

  • Guest
Re: Roof Report
« Reply #3 on: April 30, 2013, 05:04:00 PM »
Ed, I previously posted that the PO of my coach used an inferior product from Home Depot and he suggested I pressure wash it off and start fresh. I went and bought the Rustoleum paint and began to pressure wash today. Even on max (2600psi washer) most of the stuff will not budge, only what has bubbled up and orange peeled. So myt questions are:

1. Is there a product that I could safely use on the roof to get off the old stuff (not even sure what the stuff is)
2. Since it woin't come off easially, what harm to scrape off what I can and repaint right over it?

Your thought please.....thanks.

John

Edward Buker

  • Guest
Re: Roof Report
« Reply #4 on: April 30, 2013, 09:36:22 PM »
John,

I do not know what would take off what you have now, given that it is unclear what the coating was. If what was to be used, to remove this layer, was solvent based it would be a huge mess anyway. My suggestion would be to not be overly aggressive, pressure wash the surface, and if you see some that is peeling or delaminating then scrape what is loose off. I would use a solvent like PPG DX330 wax and grease remover on just the bare spots. Auto paint supply stores will have it or an equivalent.

https://www.welleauto.com/index.php?page=shop.product_details&flypage=flypage.tpl&product_id=893&option=com_virtuemart&Itemid=57

I would then paint just a small segment, maybe a foot square over the existing coating, and see what happens over several days of curing. If you see lifting or bubbling of the lower layer then the solvent in the paint is reacting with the underlayer and this will not work. If the paint hardens up and looks fine then you will have protected the roof and coating and the paint on top should hold up well. I would put two coats on if the one square foot trial looks like what you might want as a result.

If you could find out what was put on your roof and could talk to the manufacturer, they should have insight as to what it would take to remove it and the best method. It is a roof and basically you want to protect the gel coat and stop chaulking. It does not have to be perfectly smooth but if it is smooth it sheds dirt better. If the current coating is staying on well I would not go to extremes....

Later Ed

Edward Buker

  • Guest
Re: Roof Report
« Reply #5 on: April 30, 2013, 09:48:19 PM »
Stan,

I would not use anything but a pressure washer. Obviously anyone who said that Dicor could be loosened up with a pressure washer has never spent time digging Dicor up. It has no affect on Dicor and if some did come up (which it never has) it would need to be replaced anyway. I use an electric pressure washer which is powerful enough to get the job done but as always match the pressure and nozzle to the job. I have a flat swivel head tool with a flat white scrub pad on it that works well on the roof.  Something like this...

http://www.amazon.com/3M-Doodlebug-Cleaning-White-4-625/dp/B005AWYOUA

It takes me about 45 minutes to clean the roof with the paint coating on it. The only thing I am very careful of with the pressure washer is the thin dome skylight over the shower. I primed and painted my air conditioner and frig vent covers to match the coach and they take the pressure washing just fine.

Later Ed

Stan Simpson

  • BAC Member
  • *
  • Posts: 786
  • Thanked: 202 times
  • One mile South of the Cheddar Curtain
Re: Roof Report
« Reply #6 on: May 01, 2013, 12:14:05 AM »
Ed,

That is good news, thank  you. I received a Cabela's gift card for Christmas, and since I'm neither a hunter or an avid fisherman, I purchased an electric 1800 psi pressure washer they had on sale. I was afraid I couldn't use it.

Best regards,

Stan
Stan Simpson & Becky Glover & Moe the cat
2005 Monterey Laguna IV
C9 400 Cat
Honda CRV toad

Keith Moffett

  • BAC Member
  • *
  • Posts: 1124
  • Thanked: 395 times
  • Every day is a blessing!
Re: Roof Report
« Reply #7 on: May 01, 2013, 12:44:38 PM »
Ed
I intend to use the rustoeum later this summer.  I note that the web site calls for a primer over fiberglass.  Did you prime the whole top or just the A/C covers?

Keith
2007 Patriot Thunder
45' C-13
2006 Explorer Ltd.
DW is Carol
Safe travels and
May God bless!

Edward Buker

  • Guest
Re: Roof Report
« Reply #8 on: May 01, 2013, 02:35:30 PM »
Keith,

This was on the label and posted on the web....

BARE FIBERGLASS: The entire surface to be painted, regardless of age, must
be thoroughly washed with a fiberglass dewaxer to remove all traces of mold
release agents and wax. Sand the gelcoat with 80-120 grit sandpaper to a dull,
frosty appearance; solvent clean to remove residue. If the surface is in excellent
condition, proceed with the first coat of Topside Paint.
If the surface is rough or imperfections exist, it will have to be repaired. Fill all
nicks and gouges with a fiberglass repair compound; sand smooth when
hard, then solvent clean. Follow with a coat of Rust-Oleum Marine Coatings
Primer for Wood & Fiberglass to smooth the surface and provide a uniform
base; sand smooth and solvent clean. Proceed with the first coat of Topside
Paint.

I pressure washed with simple green (no automotive wash with wax in it), let it dry, taped off, I then used an automotive red scrub pad to make a couple of hand sand passes on each surface (about 1hr for the roof), then solvent wiped the surface with DX330 using rags (again about 1hr). I then rollered on a coat of paint, let it dry a day, and then rollered on the second coat. You will need two coats to make it look even and add durability.

Our roofs are aged surfaces, not glossy smooth, and the mold release agents must be long gone. I think the 80 to 120 sanding in the instructions is overly agressive for an already dull surface. The prep was a minimal precaution and our surfaces need no primer from my experience and the instructions I have.

Later Ed

Keith Moffett

  • BAC Member
  • *
  • Posts: 1124
  • Thanked: 395 times
  • Every day is a blessing!
Re: Roof Report
« Reply #9 on: May 02, 2013, 11:28:47 AM »
Thanks Ed.  I hope to get to this project after Gillette.
Keith
2007 Patriot Thunder
45' C-13
2006 Explorer Ltd.
DW is Carol
Safe travels and
May God bless!

George Harwell

  • Guest
Re: Roof Report
« Reply #10 on: May 02, 2013, 12:08:59 PM »

          Looks great Ed. I did the same thing to mine about 2 years ago and it is really a relief to be done with the chalking. To clean it I use a bucket of water and rag to wipe it clean with no water running down the sides. Works good for me.

Edward Buker

  • Guest
Re: Roof Report
« Reply #11 on: May 02, 2013, 02:15:45 PM »
George,

Glad you are happy with it. I know there are some very costly roof treatments in the industry for fiberglass roofs. Frankly for the expense of using this Rustoleum Marine Deck paint and the limited effort required to get the job done I cannot find a good reason to spend more money or put more effort in this project. Sounds like you have a good method to clean the roof if the rest of the coach is clean....may try that sometime.

Later Ed

John Padmore

  • Guest
Re: Roof Report
« Reply #12 on: May 02, 2013, 07:05:46 PM »
Ed, I painted the roof of my coach today with the rustoleum topside paint - great results.
1. Pressure washed the roof.
2. Scraped off any loose paint.
3. Used crud cutter on entire roof since there was lots of green spots.
4. Washed the roof and scrubbed with stiff brush.
5. Pressure washed again.
6. Scraped off loose paint again.
Waited 1 day for drying....
7. Broomed off any dust, critters etc.
8. Painted on the first coat - looks great!
9. Second coat planned for tomorrow.

Thanks for posting the info about this great product, I appreciate it.

John

neil omalley

  • Guest
Re: Roof Report
« Reply #13 on: May 02, 2013, 08:14:01 PM »
Ed: did the roof NEED pressure washing? Or could you , in fact, gotten by with just a mopping with a mild detergent(Dawn, etc)?

Edward Buker

  • Guest
Re: Roof Report
« Reply #14 on: May 03, 2013, 03:12:58 AM »
Niel,

I could have cleaned the roof without using a pressure washer but it is a help to reduce the work and does an excellent job. I use ths pressure washer on my cars (including a covertible), my fiberglass boat, and all surfaces in my motorhome. I have had no problems with any water being forced into areas and causing a problem. I have no reservations using this washer but I do maintain an appropriate nozzle distance for the surface I am working on. For the roof I am holding about 6 to 8 inched of distance from nozzle to painted surface. It is just not all that agressive of a unit.

John,

Good for you, glad you are over the hump......second coat is the easy one...enjoy the new finish. Post a photo when you are done...

Later Ed
« Last Edit: May 03, 2013, 02:25:47 PM by 910 »