Refrigerant with stopleak

[Gerald Farris]

The following question was from Ed Buker.

If anyone has used some R134A with some leak sealer in it I wouldn't love to know
What the experience has been with slow leaks.
  
Later Ed

[Frank Bannert]

I have used it and it worked great. My dash a/c was blowing warm air and I added the 134a stop leak and it has worked for over a year now and it is cooling good at this time. I had a new compressor put on about 2 yrs. ago and then broke a line and had that repaired and their was a slow leak and I added the 134a and have had no problem since. My unit was empty of 134a and I added 3 cans of 134a plus the stop leak.
Frank

[Bill Sprague]

I bought a can of Interdynamics A/C Pro at O'Reilly's.  Once I found the port, it was very easy to use.  The black A/C Pro kit had the longest hose of the choices on the shelf.  The long hose made it easy to get to the service port under the front cap above the generator.

Product information: http://acprocold.com/product/acp-100-ac-pro/

"How to" video:  https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ayV1oEo--xA

Interdynamics also makes a product called "Super Seal" that has to be followed with a can of refrigerant.  The can I used said it has some leak stop in it, but maybe not as much.  

[Dick Simonis]

Did you use gauges to know what the charge level was before and after?  I was told there is some liability if overcharged.

[Bill Sprague]

Did you use gauges to know what the charge level was before and after?  I was told there is some liability if overcharged.

I was worried about that.  So, I cheated and asked Marty to help me.

The can comes with reusable gauge that displays the pressure.  It includes a trigger so that you control the flow while checking the gauge.  On the face of the gauge is a rotatable dial that you set to the day's temperature.

In a perfect world, the port is located near the compressor so that, if the compressor cycles off, you let go of the trigger.  In the Beaver world, the access port and compressor are 38 feet apart!  So, at times, the gauge will indicate you have filled it properly and then drop.  You add more.  When my can was empty, the gauge held in the green zone.  

The video in the link above shows how easy it is.  Had I watched the video instead of reading the instructions, I could have done it without Marty!

[Edward Buker]

Thanks for the feedback and it would seem that some have had good success with some smaller leaks. I bought the A/C pro material in the black can that includes a component that is supposed to stop leaks. I am a skeptic and wanted a little more information so I called the manufacturer. This product has a component that is not designed to coat and seal. It has a component that conditions the Orings to make them swell and probably become a bit more pliable as they age. It has just two oz of that material and I think should be pretty benign as far as causing any problems. There are products that are designed to coat and seal that are more aggressive and viscous. I would be concerned about those products possibly gumming up an expansion valve or plugging something up so I will try this product and then go to finding the leak if this does not work.

 I do know the pressures before and after and where they should be based on ambient temperature. I have a good set of gauges. I charged up this morning, having to add 24 oz of 134A to get to appropriate high side pressure. I will let you know if things improve with this product. I think I have a high side schrader valve leak, I see a bit of residue in the cap and on the pipe...time will tell, this may be wishful thinking.

Later Ed

[Dick Simonis]

It does sound promising.  In my case I had the dash air repaired twice in both cases it was o-ring failure and each time on the same hoses just at opposite ends.

[Stan Simpson]

Bill,

That video is very informative. Were you able to shoot a picture of the port? I'm still looking. Now that I saw one on the video, I will look again.

Is there a chance its in a different spot with the Cat instead of the Cummins?

Stan

[Bill Sprague]

... Were you able to shoot a picture of the port? I'm still looking. ....Is there a chance its in a different spot with the Cat instead of the Cummins?

I got into a time bind yesterday because I was on my way to pick up my charming granddaughter at school.  I didn't take the picture!

On mine, the port is accessed with the genset out.  If you were to mark a spot on the front cap six inches up from the genset opening and slightly to the passenger side, the fill valve would be behind that spot.

[Bill Sprague]

T...... I bought the A/C pro material in the black can that includes a component that is supposed to stop leaks. I am a skeptic and wanted a little more information so I called the manufacturer. This product has a component that is not designed to coat and seal. It has a component that conditions the Orings to make them swell and probably become a bit more pliable as they age. It has just two oz of that material and I think should be pretty benign as far as causing any problems. There are products that are designed to coat and seal that are more aggressive and viscous. I would be concerned about those products possibly gumming up an expansion valve or plugging something up so I will try this product and then go to finding the leak if this does not work.

The same company does have an agressive sealer:  http://acprocold.com/product/mrl-3-ac-pro-super-seal/ On their video page is shows its use and states it must be followed with refrigerant to clear in fill port.  http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=--3J7uROKrM&feature=player_embedded

[Stan Simpson]

I got into a time bind yesterday because I was on my way to pick up my charming granddaughter at school.  I didn't take the picture!

On mine, the port is accessed with the genset out.  If you were to mark a spot on the front cap six inches up from the genset opening and slightly to the passenger side, the fill valve would be behind that spot.

Thank you, Bill.

This HAS to be it...LOL..  What do you think?  

[Edward Buker]

In the photo the black can unit is the receiver dryer which holds the desiccant. The unit on top with the wires is the pressure switch that controls the condenser fans and the compressor low pressure shut down. Could be just one of these functions but it probably controls both. The ports you are looking for most likely are on a section of metal pipe and will have a blue plastic cap on it for the low side and a red plastic cap for the high side pressure line. Mine are by the compressor in the rear (in the photo) but Beaver had many various locations. Sometimes the caps are black and not color coded.

Bill, thanks for the info on the sealer.

Later Ed

[Bill Sprague]

Thank you, Bill.

This HAS to be it...LOL..  What do you think?  

I don't see it in your picture!

[Edward Buker]

Bill,

My comments on the various parts are for the previous post photo. On the photo included on my post you should see the pulley end of the compressor and the two silver right angle pipes coming out of the top of the compressor. You should then see a red and blue plastic cap on the ports coming off of those right angle pipes on the top of those bends.

Later Ed

[Stan Simpson]

Thank you Ed and Bill. Back to the drawing board!