Intermittent shutdown

[William Jordan]

Frustrating intermittent complete shutdown of coach has been plaguing my trip to Dallas.
First happened while DW was driving, gauges went crazy speed 85 tach 0 and engine shut off. I showed no voltage on the dash gauge and when I used the coach battery boost I was able to restart. About an hour later it died on me but restarted with just a key turn. Thinking it's a alternator problem I ran the gen the next day with no problems. I was in Palm Desert called mobile service but they found nothing. Alternator appears to charge batteries while not great were OK.
Now in Mesa at check in the engine wouldn't restart gauge showing 0 volts, after more try it started only to die 6 feet out in the park street!  not to restart this time, I called a service but chassis tech wasn't available the guys they sent had no idea ( tried boosting the batteries but they where already charged)
Several hours later ( after it cooled down) I tried the key and it restarted and at least now I'm in a space fully
Today the tech found nothing but only did basic look as without the problem present... He recommended new batteries because they were 3 years old. Starter issue? Maybe but why does it die when running? Alternator shows a chance on the batteries.
Anyone have anything like this happen or have any ideas on where to look? We will head out in the am
I guess fuel up and keep the GS roadside assist card handy :-/

[Arden Smith]

My best guess is that you are loosing your ground on the engine block. Remove the ground wire from the engine block, clean the wire and the block area, and reinstall the ground cable. Worth a try.
Smitty

[Joel Ashley]

I'd be suspicious of the solenoid in the electrical bay (streetside front bay, near bottom center with heavy wires attached).  It may have bad connections, but if it's still a basic Ford-type solenoid that hasn't been switched out to an electronic one, they have a history of going belly up.

The tech's suggestion about the batteries is questionable at the very least.  But Arden's right that the chassis ground should be inspected.  Also check all the ignition connections in the electrical bay for looseness and corrosion.

Joel

[Bob Jae]

I had a similar problem and replaced the solenoid Joel is referring to and then took it a apart and it was pitted and burnt looking.  I posted about it about a year ago.  I will see if I can find it.  The solenoid is active when the ignition is turned on and supplies a lot of circuits.  It is a 200 or 300 amp continuos duty one that I got at NAPA.  Less than $20 and easy to change.  I turned the battery cut off switches off for safety.

The NAPA number was ST85

[Corey Osborne]

I think I just got over this problem, bought coach a year ago now, and here is the items I changed or experienced.

1st. Fuel was practically empty ( I am sure I sucked up some junk into fuel lines etc.)
2nd. Had it serviced to replace all fuel filters. (at this time started as I do with all diesels started adding diesel clean additive to fuel.)
3rd.  Also advised that the starter solenoid was bad installed the Napa one smoked it in 100 miles, replaced with the blue sea systems one for 175 bucks
4th. problem seemed to spread out but not eliminated, next suggested to replace ignition switch did that

at this point this was about 3 trips at approx. 400 miles rt, coach would shutdown at least 2 times on the way out and 2 on the way in never leaving me stranded.  the 4th trip going about 200 miles RT it died once going out and nothing on the way in.

5th trip all though short distance from home for a bike event, say 35 miles each way nothing ran like a top with no issues.  my guess is it was a combination of all things fuel, starting solenoid, possibly ignition switch.  I am preparing my next trip and also pointing out this rig gets topped off with fuel before storage every time now and will continue to add diesel clean on every fill. 

I was also advised ground, I thought that would be easy right, Freightliner had my coach for 6 weeks and took numerous test drives with no duplication of my problem. and also claimed the walked harness from front bay back to engine with no finding of bad grounds.

I thought I was going to sell this now coming up on a year owning and now I am excited all over again hoping my problems in this area are gone.

[Gerald Farris]

William,
There is about a 95% chance that the only problem that you have is a defective ignition solenoid in the LF electrical bay. Just replace it with an 85 amp or higher continuous duty solenoid. They are available from most RV suppliers or you can get one from Amazon for about $10. These solenoids are so prone to failure that I carry a spare one in my coach.                                                                                     http://www.amazon.com/Cole-Hersee-24059-BP-Insulated-Continuous/dp/B0064MX7US/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1428011897&sr=8-1&keywords=12v+continuous+duty+solenoid

Gerald

[Joel Ashley]

As implied, William, there is a lot of headache attributable to a $10-$20 part.  That's why I mentioned the electronic version that's been discussed in this Forum before - perhaps the term was "solid state relay"?  It's relatively trouble-free.  I'm not sure Bob is talking about an electronic one, but if you go for the standard Ford type Gerald refers to, it's an easy switchout, and take his advice and get an extra one for a spare.

Found a reference in the Forum a couple years back, Cole Hersee 48785, as posted by Ed Buker.  Although they'll last the life of the rig, they ain't cheap compared to just putting in a solenoid every few years as Gerald notes, unless you find one at a bargain price.

Joel

[Walt Pocock]

William, I had a problem where the engine shut down on the freeway without warning and would not restart. It took the technician about 15 hours to find that one of the $5.00 relays in the battery bay had failed. There are 3 or 4 relays on the forward wall of that compartment and it was the outside one. He felt so bad because of what he had to charge me he gave me an extra relay. I have to tell you, it didn't make me fell any better at all.

[William Jordan]

Pulled the batteries and had checked all good. The coach is leveled and dropped in the rear I have no way at the moment to crawl under to look for the ground giong to engine but I'll make it a priority. Right  after I find Napa and replace that solenoid!!  It looks like a easy fix, fingers crossed! The one in the bay has the  black paint on it burnt and flaking off.
My dash volt Guage after removing the batteries, testing them and cleaning up the terminals is jumping around as it idles ( between 12.2 and 13 volts.) Thanks all

[Joel Ashley]

I'd shut off the chassis main switch in the battery bay before messing with the solenoid, just to avoid inadvertant surprises.

Joel

[William Jordan]

thanks Joel.. On my mind also

[Dave Atherton]

Hi, engine 3126 B, E ? Next question, when engine stops will the key still turn over the engine but will not start or put out any smoke from exhaust pipe ? If yes than you have lost power to a little relay that turns on the fuel from ECM . Color of wire in question to relay from engine ECM is red in color and Sometimes with a new relay installed you will find no voltage on wire coming out of relay housing.

I can provide you more info. once I know your engine s/n This is a off and on problem and starts around this relay.

Dave Atherton

[Edward Buker]

William,

The next time it happens, if it is in a safe spot, leave the key in the on position and do not touch anything and do not try and restart the coach. Go out and open the cover to the electrical bay. Bring a meter set on the appropriate scale to measure 12VDC. Put the meter leads between the ground buss and the left buss which should read 12V+. Then take the measurement between ground and the right buss. That should also be 12VDC+. If not then go back in the coach and check the dash volt meter, it should be in whatever position it rests in when the key is off. Wiggle the key slightly clockwise and counterclockwise while staying in the on position.  Watch the dash voltmeter and see if the voltage changes. If it does change the key switch, if it does not and the right buss was well below 12V (more like 0volts) then change the large solenoid at the bottom of the two busses that connect them together when on. You could just change both of these items to rule them out.

Later Ed

[Gerald Farris]

Dave,
That is good information for 3126 owners, but the coach in question here with the problem has a C12.

Gerald

[Edward Buker]

William,

I bring up the key business because I have had that problem when driving the RV and if I moved the key some in the on position I could get the engine to run. The contacts were questionable or the detents that left you in the on position after coming out of the crank position were worn enough that the switch would not always settle in a "well contacted" on/run position. As Gerald and others have stated, the most likely culprit is the solenoid that powers up the right buss which is turned on by the ignition switch.

I did replace my relay with a solid state Cole Hersee 48785 from Ebay. From time to time they show up at less than $100 as an overstock item. They are marine environment certified, sealed, and have no contacts. Our electrical bay is sealed (so to speak) but can be a very damp environment which probably causes the shorter life of the mechanical contact components. If you go to the solid state version you can eliminate the diode that is across the solenoid coil contacts, it is no longer needed. That Cole Hersee unit will outlast the coach.

Later Ed