Wiring diagram for Jeep Cherokee toad

[Robert Smith]

Dear BAC,
I hope someone can help. We are changing to a newer (2004) Jeep Grand Cherokee and need a simple diagram to wire into the coach system. We have all we need: the wiring, four new diodes, pigtail connector block.
All we need is to see how the diode/wires go from one tail light to another.
Could someone provide this (before our long-time relationship falls apart) !

Second request: Has anyone had a problem with the switch failing on the dump slides? We have an '01 Marquis with electric slides. We were able to fix the black dump but are stuck with the "secret" location of the slot to activate the slide in case of emergency....We have rec'd help from the Beaver guru's (Kenny) to no avail.....

Third: Does anyone have a Howard Steering Unit? We have replaced a number of parts to no avail and no help is readily available.

Linda Smith F121513

[Gerald Farris]

There are several questions that need to be answered before I can give you an answer on the toad brake lights. First does your Jeep have a "bulb out" warning system. If it does, the use of diodes in the lighting system can cause a malfunction in this system, and therefore the use of an auxiliary bulb system like the Blue Ox BX8869 is recommended. And since your Marquis has amber turn signals, you will also need a tail light converter to change the wiring to the toad to a 4 wire system. http://www.blueox.us/PDFS/BX8869.PDF    

If you want to use diodes the wiring instructions can be found at; http://www.blueox.us/PDFS/BX8869.PDF

By the question about dump slides, I assume that you mean the electric dump valve actuators. There is no secret slot in case of emergency. If the electric actuator system fails, you can remove the paper towel holder in the sewer and water service bay and gain some access to the valves through the hole behind it, but you usually need to remove the stainless steel panel to gain enough access to repair the problem which is usually a warped plastic mounting plate for the actuator motor.

As for the Howard Steering Unit. they went out of business, but Iron Horse RV in San Antonio Texas may be able to help you since they are located a few miles from where the Howard factory was located, and they installed a large number of their units.  

Gerald

[Tim Bentley Co-Admin]

The electric dump valve actuators on the Marquis do not last forever, I have had to replace mine twice.  You may be able to free them up or they can be replaced with a new electric valve or a cable operated manual valve.  

I have had some success in freeing up the valves by emptying and cleaning the tanks and then filling them (tanks) with a small amount of water and silicone spray.  If you activate the valve in that mixture it sometimes will free them up for a while.  The valves will eventually silt up and stop working, and will need to be replaced.  You can get a new valve form Drain Master for around $90.00.  Installing the new valve can be a chore, especially if the access panel has short hoses and is difficult to get behind. Removing the old valve can also be a chore as they are sometimes set in foam making it difficult to get the necessary clearance. I was able to get my panel to open about 2 feet.  Be sure to mount the new valve with the actuator motors to the top and be careful not to over tighten the bolts and twist the valve.

After having replaced my valves twice, I am seriously thinking about going to a cable pull manual system the next time around,


This is Drain Masters web site.  http://www.drainmaster.com/

[Edward Buker]

Seems like many of us have been through this and I had my trial by fire in the first few weeks of ownership while on the road last summer. I was told by the folks at Drain Master that the new valves have been improved and that mounting the valve with the orientation of the motor and slide valve up goes a long way toward eliminating the bulk of the residue that would deposit and stay on the blade valve. The blade is parked in the open position above the flow path while draining. If you are going to go through the work of replacing it you have to find a way to get this orientation to happen. There is just enough room on my tank arrangement to do this. I would add that you need to have sufficient water in the tank to carry the solids and use the flush feature often. Tim is right on with his info on mounting and tightening the valve.

There is a manual open feature using a screw driver or allen key depending on the vintage of the valve. Unfortunately you have to get behind the panel to work this feature. Not much of a solution but it saved us once when we could not get the black water valve open electrically. It is a stretch to reach with the panel pried out with limited access.

Given the frustration of getting access to the area behind the panel I did the following and would recommend this change. If you have an easy way to release the piping manifold from the outside of the panel you will gain a lot more access much easier....no walk in the park but a lot easier. The factory used metal straps and screws and nuts to tie the manifold to the panel. It was nearly impossible to reach those nuts with the access that you can get from the frontside of the panel. I made a fixture out of oak and aluminum bar to hold the manifolds to the panel. This all releases easily from the frontside now with four sheet metal screws and pulling the knobs. I also used a Sharpie marker to mark all of the plumbing connections that must be disconnected to fully release the panel. With the manifods released from the panel you can tilt it enough to reach in and see the "color coded" connections that need to be disconnected and unscrew just those. The mounts have some foam tape on the aluminum bars and tie wraps to connect them to the manifolds. Yours may be slightly different from mine but this mount will be close. Consider making a set of these and when you have to take the panel out use that opportunity to install them, you will be glad you did. You will only have to swear like one sea captain and not the whole crew to pull the panel in the future... Hope this helps.

Later Ed

[Edward Buker]

This additional info from Blue Ox to go along with Gerald's link may also be of help.

This is a link to a 4 wire to 4 wire simple wire install using the toads lighting and diodes for example. It may not be what works for your two vehicles.  http://www.blueox.us/PDFS/fig3.pdf  

This info link should help you sort out your options. http://www.blueox.us/instruction/wiringgremlins.htm
If you click on "figuire 3" for instance, in the text, it takes you to the wiring diagram in the above link. There are others. Find the diagram and vehicle configuration that best fits your situation and you should be able to obtain the wiring diagram via the  "Figuire Link".

Gerald pointed out the amber light interface issue and possible warning indicator interactions if you have those. There are some cases where independant bulbs and sockets are the best way to go if the warning indicator is involved and is set off with the diodes installed.

Hope this helps you get to the best option for your configuration.

Later Ed

[Tim Bentley Co-Admin]

Ed

Like your manifold idea.  Will see if i can do the same the next time I have that $% #@%$ panel out.

[LarryNCarolynShirk]

Ditto, but not before I need to.

Larry