Coach Power Solenoid

[Mike And Mary Engen]

Currently in Williston, ND and no battery power, have to run generator/shore power.  Since I was previously a licensed industrial electrician and have coach schematics, did my own troubleshooting.  Batteries are good, but have 12.6 vdc on one side of "coach power solenoid" and 7.6 vdc on the other side and all the way to DC panel.  Have not pulled out solenoid yet as it is located above batteries and I currently at friends farm.

Trying to read small print on schematic, but it looks like it reads 200 amp.  We have a 95 Beaver and are wondering if they have this solenoid at NAPAs', is it special order, do rv dealers stock these, do big truck repair shops have them?  In other words, where do we acquire one and does anybody have the specs handy?

Thank you....Mike

[Edward Buker]

Mike,

The replacement that I have in my 2002 marquis is a Trombetta 114-1211-010. It is rated at 225Amps continuous duty and 600amps inrush. !2V SPNO. I obtained this from Beaver Coach Sales because mine was defective when I bought the coach and they furnished the part. It is available at this website if they do not have one. Photo will provide insight if it will mount like your current solenoid. It is made in the USA which may mean better quality. PN24812 at website. approx $75. Beaver Coach sales are closer and good about getting the right parts out if they have it.

http://www.texasindustrialelectric.com/relays.asp

My original was a White Rogers made in Mexico. Photo here. Fail mode, it would click (activate) but no contact by voltmeter confirmation. If you enlarge it you will see PN but specs are not on the unit. Hope this helps.

Later Ed

[Mike And Mary Engen]

Thanks Ed,
Once I get to Northfield,MN, I will pull and replace the relay.
Mike

[Edward Buker]

Mike,

I had starting problems with my coach which is how I learned that my solenoid did not work. The 1.5 year old group 31 starting batteries were proving to be inadequate. When I bought the coach it had an offbeat brand name chassis batteries which I eventually replaced with some Napa Commercial group 31 batteries. I had a set of jumper cables in the car and just tied the chassis to house bank and started the coach...it will do in a pinch.

Later Ed

[Bill Sprague]

If you are talking about the coach power solenoid that is controlled by the switch at the front door, you can "fix it for good".  Many think it is useless except to salesmen on busy lots.  I'm actually afraid mine will be accidentally shut off because the fridge is on that circuit.  If off, the food will rot and the ice cubes will melt.

I don't know how many coaches are like this, but I learned from Roy Mueller that it is typical on later models to use a "latching relay".  In other words, it is not continuous duty.  Momentary power to it switches it from off to on or back.  It does not use continuous power to hold it on.  

If you agree it is useless or want to get going with a simple repair, jumper the connectors.  The easiest way to do this is to put both of the primary wires onto the same lug.  It is probably wise to turn off battery power with the big master switch first.

On edit:  I found that it was a little difficult reaching one of the lugs for the large primary wires.  I decided to disable the switch by the door instead.  I pulled the screws but it was wedged in.  I didn't want to break it, so I put the screws back in.  I went back to the solenoid and removed one of the small wires, wrapped it in electrical tape and zip tied to something solid.  The switch no longer does anything!  The ice cubes will stay solid!  

[Robert W Carlson]

Mike, we have a 96 Marquis and our solenoid has also failed.  I called Bend Service Center and sent a picture trying to match it.  If it is the same solenoid I have, it is unique in that it has four posts and they could not find a replacement.  If your coach is wired like ours, it is very unique.  When you turn the ignition key on, the solenoid connects all batteries.  In our case, when the solenoid failed, while driving I would overcharge the house batteries and deplete the chassis battery and the alarm sounded.  One large post is house battery, the other large is chassis battery.  One small post is ignition, the other is ground.  What I have done is ... On the solenoid I have connected the house and chassis batteries together and disconnected the ground wire.  The big drawback is when you are self-contained.  You will deplete all batteries and you could end up with a dead chassis battery.  If self-contained, I disconnect the ground wire from the chassis battery.  If you ever find a four post continuous duty solenoid, PLEASE let me know!  The other solution is to rewire to the new configuration using a echo charger to keep the chassis battery charged.  I did run across a Beaver owner who had their coach rewired and they had a fire and lost their coach, so I am hesitant to have this done.  Bend is aware of the unique wiring and the rewiring solution and would probably be a safe bet.  Hope this info helps you.

Bob Carlson

[Gil_Johnson]

The referenced relay, Trombetta 114-1211-010, is a continuous duty cycle relay.  The 3rd digit from the end is either 0 or 5, 5 for 50% duty cycle, http://www.trombetta.com/cm/pdfs/bear-family.pdf .

Bob, 4 terminals should be the norm.  The only thing that might be unique is what drives the trigger; in your case the ignition being on.  All should come on when the ignition is on.  However, I could see a manufacturer adding sensing for voltage that might close the relay even if the ignition is off until the house voltage gets down to X voltage (enough to still start the engine).  I could also see them being on any time house voltage was over 13.5V as a means to charge the engine battery.

Gil

[Mike And Mary Engen]

Pulled the relay out this am and it is identical to the battery isolator relay.  Found it on Ebay:

http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=200502902774

http://www.pac-audio.com/productDetails.aspx?ProductId=772&CategoryID=31

This specs out at 200 amp continuous and matches the original Beaver specs.  Know I could
have spliced the two leads together, but trying to keep original.

Thanks to all!

Mike  

[Robert W Carlson]

Thanks for the heads up, Mike.  I'll try again to locate one and put mine back to original, which seems like the better way to go.

Bob Carlson

[Mike And Mary Engen]

This is also a match:

White Rogers 200 Amp 12 Volt Relay
Continuous Duty Cycle
21.0 Ohm Coil Resistance
Gold Plated Contacts

Part # 586902B1

To change out, isolate batteries.  More room if you pull out, but I covered with thick cardboard so I would not get battery acid or short out anything.
You will need a 1/2" socket for 12 volt battery cables, 3/8" for power (salesman's) switch cables and 7/16" for mounting bolts.  On our 95 it was not
a latching relay, it is continuous and we have to have the power (salesman's) switch turned on for 12 volt and inverter power.

Mike

[Robert W Carlson]

Mike, went to eBay, got the solenoid, installed it (perfect match), back to original.  Again, thanks for the info.  I never considered eBay as a vendor for parts for our motorhome!

Bob