Velvac Mirrors how to...

[Joel Ashley]

So we almost have our fold-down garage eave project done, which will give me several more inches of maneuverability getting the coach in and out of the side-yard pad.  Hopefully it will no longer be such an intimidating (and damaging) task, so we'll use the rig more.  But I need to revisit an issue I ran past BCS when the thing was new and I struggled not only with the right side and the garage, but also the driver's side 6 ft. fence where the mirror sticks out. 

Eventually my solution was to hold down the air-up switch to get the mirror barely over the top of the fenceline.  But holding the button down for 60 ft. is a pain - if you let off the switch, Monaco's electronic override of the HWH design automatically heads the mirror back down to Travel Mode, taking the mirror onto the fence top.  Adding into the mix that my concentration is mostly on the darned eave on the other side, and which I can only see in the passenger side mirror at an angle, keeping the other mirror off of the fence means a sore finger on the switch for 5-6 anxious minutes.  Heaven forbid anything goes wrong somewhere else mid-passage... what do I do with my mirror poised over the fence and I can't let go of the switch?!

So, Tale-of-Woe explained, BCS 9 years ago was little help.  What I thought at the time was easy... wasn't.  How do I move the darned mirror inboard, Guys?  As I recall we removed the two plastic caps (see yellow arrows in photo) and figured on loosening a couple alan bolts behind them so the mirror arm would swing forward and get the mirror temporarily out of the way of the fence.  However BCS proffered no happiness there, and now I've forgotten why.  I presume the alan bolt/screw notion was unfruitful.  I just recall the mirror wouldn't be repositioned.

Anyone here dealt with moving similar Velvac mirrors?  It looks simple enough, but before I dig in and start removing plastic caps/plugs that as I recall weren't themselves exactly unbreakable or a the pain-free process it would seem, I was hoping to get input from someone who's been there, done that.  I just would like to move the arm and mirror forward where it's not so extended sideways, but I can still see that side of the coach in it, and then move it back to travel position when I make it to the street.  It would even probably help if I could at least turn the mirror top 90 degrees, but then I'd lose all side visibility to the back except for the side camera, which I've found in practice is mostly useless in this particular situation.

Joel

[Roy C Tyler]

Joel
I just went out and checked mine.  It is a little different as it has a single bolt recessed in the bottom of the bracket that goes up into the arm and holds it tight.  If I loosen the bolt, I can swing my arm into any position.

[JimNCheryl Domenoe]

I have the same mirrors. Remove the two plastic caps with a small flat blade screwdriver. They are something like a Dzus fastener in that they only have about a quarter turn to loosen them. Once they are removed you can loosen the two set screws. You should then be able to rotate the arms forward to the position you desire. I would tighten one set screw before moving the coach just to ensure it doesn't move.  After you pull your coach you can readjust the arm.  Reinstall the plastic caps and you are done.

Hope this works for you.

[Steve Huber Co-Admin]

Joel,
Why not just cut a foot or so off the top the fence?? 
Steve

[Jerry Emert]

Joel
I just went out and checked mine.  It is a little different as it has a single bolt recessed in the bottom of the bracket that goes up into the arm and holds it tight.  If I loosen the bolt, I can swing my arm into any position.

This is how mine works.

[Joel Ashley]

Joel,
Why not just cut a foot or so off the top the fence?? 
Steve

Naw Steve, the new neighbor that shares the fence is, well, less than cooperative as it is.  The more privacy via fence height between us the better.

Yes, Jim, I figured on the Alan screws of course holding the shaft, but can't recall precisely what it was that kept BCS or me from having that simply do the trick.  Maybe the screws were frozen up or something.  There looks to be a large oval cap on the underside which I expect covers the bottom of the shaft we're trying to rotate, but I don't want to try and remove it without knowing that will provide some advantage to what I'm trying to accomplish.  We had those smaller plastic caps off back when, and they weren't removed without damage from the screwdriver;  seems like their threads were wimpy and hard to get out or reinsert, and replacements difficult to get.  Following all that we still couldn't move the mirror arm shaft.

So I just didn't want to begin down that old road again without consulting others here that might have walked it more recently.

Joel

[Doug Allman]

Joel,
This is just to be funny on the 4th. If you have a coach you can get new neighbors! Just being practical like Steve.

[Joel Ashley]

Yup Doug.  But I have to get away from the old neighbor without scratching up the rig first!

-Joel

[Lee Welbanks]

Joel,

Don't remove the mirror head, loosen up the set screw on the base mount and swing the arm out front so the mirror is not on the side.  I had to do this once to get out of a jam.
If you remove the mirror head there are wires for the heater and turn signal.

[Joel Ashley]

Well, I confirmed that removing the two plug/caps and loosening the allen screws is the way to do it, then just turn the arm.  That seemed obvious enough, but those little caps got pretty beat up last time.  They must quarter-turn with a screwdriver in their slot, as opposed to prying out, but twisting a driver in the slot on mine resulted in 2006/7 with damaged slots and cracked caps that had to be epoxied back together.  Not looking forward to redamaging them.

http://www.velvac.com/sites/default/files/resource-files/owners_manual_-_2025_2030_and_revolution_mirrors_7138002.11.pdf

The applicable model that's closest is the 2030, with the diagram on page 4.

-Joel

[Stan Simpson]

Well, I confirmed that removing the two plug/caps and loosening the allen screws is the way to do it, then just turn the arm.  That seemed obvious enough, but those little caps got pretty beat up last time.  They must quarter-turn with a screwdriver in their slot, as opposed to prying out, but twisting a driver in the slot on mine resulted in 2006/7 with damaged slots and cracked caps that had to be epoxied back together.  Not looking forward to redamaging them.

http://www.velvac.com/sites/default/files/resource-files/owners_manual_-_2025_2030_and_revolution_mirrors_7138002.11.pdf

The applicable model that's closest is the 2030, with the diagram on page 4.

-Joel

Joel, my little caps were a mess and detracted from the appearance. You can order them from Velvac, online. I think I got more than I needed because they will get damaged again if I have to take them off. Poor design IMO.

[Joel Ashley]

I got one cap out easy enough, but the second one had an old glue-repaired crack that split when I tried unscrewing it.  It would've been nice if they were metal, but I'm sure they didn't want caps that might corrode into place so no one could get to the Allen screws at all, thus the chromed plastic.

Yeah, I see the only thing offered anywhere is a kit with all the caps for one mirror, 4 mounting bolt caps and 3 set screw caps for $20 or so.  I sure don't need the big ones, and that much for just the needed 3 little plastic hole plugs?  I'd rather be able to get say 6 for $10.

But such valuations often goad me to improvise.  I'm going to cut down the shaft of a stainless Phillips screw with a ~7/16" head, flat/countersunk, and Lexel it into place.  I'll try light grease or wax on the stub of threads to try limiting the Lexel's sticking to them.  It may subsequently unscrew from cured sealant when needed, or at least carefully pry out with no surrounding chrome damage.  Then screw back in or re-Lexel.  I'll try a shot of "chrome" paint on the head to see if it sticks and looks better.

Joel

[Joel Ashley]

Okay, problem solved... well, sort of.

I tried to match up a stainless screw head with the cap's diameter and it's close to 7/16";  in fact my calipers measured exactly that, and some screw heads were close enough.  But when I cut one countersunk screw down to the 1/4" length necessary, I discovered the taper on the screw didn't allow it to seat quite all the way.  So off I go to my Ace store for untapered screws.

While rumbling through their stuff looking actually for some specialty brass screws for another project, I see they have some chrome stuff.  In one box I find an assortment of press-in caps, and the one with a 3/8" spring "shaft" has precisely a 7/16" head.  It's very much like the original except without a screwdriver slot in the middle of its head.  But will the spring shaft on it work in the mirror's Allen screw hole?

So I collected a couple in my bag and then searched out the stainless screw options I had in mind for cutting down and fitting with Lexel.  Arriving home, I immediately tried the chrome cap in the one open hole.  Much to my delight the darned thing fit perfectly and the spring shaft grabbed the inner threads of the hole tightly as if made for the job (hint, hint Velvac).  Now could I get it out again?  yup.  My handy dandy FixIt pry tool for electronics' plastic cases worked like a charm to pop it out with no harm to surrounding chrome or the cap.

So problem solved, and without having to engineer caps out of stainless screws and Lexel.  My problem now is that the one Allen screw came loose easy enough, but the second one won't budge so far.  This may be what stymied us 9 years ago when I wanted the mirror moved.  So I'm soaking it in penetrating fluid, and every hour or so I go out and micro-hammer on the Allen wrench with turning pressure.  Fingers crossed I don't have to drill this one out.  It's plug/cap didn't come out easy either... I had to break it up in pieces and dig it out without damaging surrounding chrome on the mirror.

Anyway, if you want a supply of backup plug/caps for your Velvac mirrors' Allen screw holes, Ace Hardware should have them - #940345 in their Chrome fasteners tray section.  $1.19@ is better than $20 for the Velvac kit. And they're metal, not plastic, so use CorrosionX or keep things well-waxed when inserting them.  UPC # 0 08236 78592 0 .

Joel

[Joel Ashley]

Okay, sans initial success removing the one stubborn Allen screw after a couple days, I filled the cavity with fluid and immediately capped the hole to lock in what I could.  We shall see today if 24+ hours soaking did any good.

I've dealt with frozen and/or broken bolts, etc. before, but most of the time they eventually give in to fluid and vibrating taps.  But I'm wondering if I shouldn't get the nice but spendy Bosch or DeWalt cordless impact driver I've salivated for some time over.  If it can be fit with a 3/16" Allen bit, is that a good next option for kicking the screw loose?  I've not ever used an "impact" type, and I've been put off by the cost of the good ones my research led me to.  On occasions like this I've been tempted.

Not sure it's worth the ultimate solution of drilling it out, as it's tough to keep from damaging the female threads.

-Joel

[Lee Welbanks]

Okay, sans initial success removing the one stubborn Allen screw after a couple days, I filled the cavity with fluid and immediately capped the hole to lock in what I could.  We shall see today if 24+ hours soaking did any good.

I've dealt with frozen and/or broken bolts, etc. before, but most of the time they eventually give in to fluid and vibrating taps.  But I'm wondering if I shouldn't get the nice but spendy Bosch or DeWalt cordless impact driver I've salivated for some time over.  If it can be fit with a 3/16" Allen bit, is that a good next option for kicking the screw loose?  I've not ever used an "impact" type, and I've been put off by the cost of the good ones my research led me to.  On occasions like this I've been tempted.

Not sure it's worth the ultimate solution of drilling it out, as it's tough to keep from damaging the female threads.

-Joel

Joel,
I have the whole line of Milwaukee M12 tools and love them and the impact driver is pretty stought. I don't think I would try it on one of these mirror set screws. In the past I have had pretty good success using my Bernzomatic micro torch adding heat to the screw a little at a time. Wrap the mirror arm with some wet towel and try heat cycling the screw. Another thing to try is use a cut off allen wrench and place it in the screw and give it a few good raps with a hammer.
I don't know what the mirror arm is made of, but would guess cheap pot metal so it would be real easy to damage the threads trying to drill out the screw.
I feel your pain and good luck.