Recent Posts

1

Technical Support / Re: Two isusses

« Last post by Joel Ashley on Today at 07:03:31 AM »

If a new black tank was installed, and for some unfathonable reason the installer messed with the nearby water manifold, perhaps a cold water out hose got switched there to an inlet coming from the hydronics unit.  The question then, to help zero in on the wild concept, is the water hot at all cold spigots, or just one?  On our coach, cold hoses are blue, so if a blue one is on a hot out manifold port that should be red… oops.  That implies a complimentary red hose then was put on a cold out port, and some hot spigot somewhere onboard never gets hot.

Just shooting in the dark.
-Joel

2

Technical Support / Re: Two isusses

« Last post by Carl Boger on August 15, 2026, 10:58:59 PM »

George,

What kind of AC units do you have?  If they are roof units, how did you check the  freon?  They are sealed units unless someone has added a saddle valve to it which can be done.  Like was stated before, if your air vent temp is 20 degrees less than your air intake temp the AC unit is working properly.

As for why you only have hot water I am really not sure unless you have some sort of loop bumping hot water back into you fresh water tank.  Have you verified the temperature of the tank itself?  It is usually located between the upper frame rails in one of the storage bays.  I have driven several hours before in near 100 degree weather and the fresh water tank and the storage area were very warm when we finally parked.   The water coming out of the cold line was warm, but not hot like from the water heater.
Hopefully this help some.

3

Technical Support / Re: 3rd issue

« Last post by Frank Bergamo on August 15, 2026, 07:26:50 PM »

The transmission may be running hot and setting off the light. Make sure the transmission fluid level is correct by checking the level on the shift pad. Have you cleaned the radiator stack lately? My 02” Marquis ran about 185 most of the time. If your engine coolant is running over 200, the transmission will be running hotter also, as they are connected by a transmission cooler that has coolant running through it. Hope this helps, good luck!

4

Technical Support / Re: Two isusses

« Last post by David T. Richelderfer on August 15, 2026, 07:08:56 PM »

Issue 1 - Is your Tank Fill valve open such that the water pump is recycling water?  Perhaps the water in the fresh water tank is warm/hot from being filled several days or a week earlier while you were traveling in hot weather?


Issue 2 - Your text says "doesn't seem to put out a lot of cold air."

Do you mean a) the fan isn't blowing hard enough or b) the air is not cold enough?

a) Our ACs have three fan speeds - OFF, LOW, and HIGH.  Perhaps your fan speed is set to LOW.

b) I was told that the air temperature exiting a properly working AC is 20 to 22 degrees cooler than the air that enters it.  If you can check that, then perhaps you can rule in/out the AC's cooling ability.

5

Technical Support / Re: 3rd issue

« Last post by George Frudakis on August 15, 2026, 06:58:23 PM »

Thank you. Will try

6

Technical Support / Re: 3rd issue

« Last post by David T. Richelderfer on August 15, 2026, 06:41:29 PM »

My guess is when you stop with the transmission remaining engaged, the transmission will reduce the engine RPMs enough to turn ON your dash warning lights.  If when you stopped, you would place the transmission in neutral (N), then the engine RPMs would stay increased to full idle and the lights would remain off.  As I said, it's a guess and perhaps worth a try.

7

Technical Support / 3rd issue

« Last post by George Frudakis on August 15, 2026, 01:37:10 AM »

In heavy traffic, the check engine light goes on and flickers, then stays on. I move slowly, then stop due to traffic.  When the traffic moves, the light goes off. I stop the it comes on again. I move, it goes off; there is no place for me to be able to go to the side or just stop on the expressway.  I stop again, then the light comes on, as well as the warning light and check engine light. Still can pull over from where I am in traffic. So I just have to keep driving. All the lights go off. The coach has power and runs great. The oil temp is 201, and the pressure is 35. I finally stop after 30 miles and check the oil; all is good. What could be the issue? I am 1000 miles from home and plan to get it checked out then. I'm going to keep driving and hope no more lights.
Thoughts?   

8

Technical Support / Two isusses

« Last post by George Frudakis on August 15, 2026, 01:10:36 AM »

We all love our coach will heat the water while we are driving. BUT When I am driving and the generator is on to keep it cool inside, the hot water is hot, but the cold water is also hot. I just had a new black tank valve installed; ever since then, I do not have cold water running. When I connected to a campground hose bib, I had cold water.

My rear AC unit doesn't seem to put out a lot of cold air. I had it cleaned and had the Freon checked; all was well.  The front AC cranks. Both are the same size units. Any idea what the problem is?

9

Technical Support / Re: TV antenna replacement

« Last post by David Ciotti on August 13, 2026, 03:38:16 PM »

I prefer using crimp connectors covered with shrink wrap over soldering.  One you need less equipment to crimp and second disconnecting the crimp connections is less destructive.  Sometimes it takes 3 pieces of shrink wrap, one over the connectors and one on each end of that piece of shrink wrap to seal tight on the wires.

10

Technical Support / Re: TV antenna replacement

« Last post by Fred Brooks on August 13, 2026, 11:25:33 AM »

    Randy,
 Did you turn on the antenna booster switch with the red LED illuminated? The antenna will not work if the switch is off. There is also the possibility that antenna system in a 28-year-old coach has been modified by previous owners. Fred