OK Fellas, I took a short trip and found a few bugs. The most pressing is the Fuel Gauge reads below empty when full. I think I was able to sort this out one time by rapping the side of the tank with a rubber mallet. I tried that this time to no avail.
Any tips on trouble shooting? Also, does the sender come out the top of the tank or the side?
Brian Sorry I just reread your last post. The answer to your question is the new torque rod was the same width as the old one and no shims where required it bolted right in no problem. It is important that the bolts are tight enough to capture the ball between the mounting plated so they can't move. The biggest hurdle in the replacement is getting the bolts loose I ended up using a torque multiplier to break them loose . When I did mine I removed all the torque rods and cleaned them all up replacing the dust boots and installed grease fittings on the remaining originals. The COMMON PROBLEMS article shows the procedure with pictures.
« Last post by Rocky Healey on December 07, 2025, 11:20:18 PM »
One of the multi plex switch clear plastic covers is broken and falls out of the panel. Does anyone know if these covers are available and if so where. Thanks in advance. Rocky Healey 2008 PT 45 ft C-13
« Last post by Brian Buchanan on December 06, 2025, 04:20:03 PM »
I had found that kit on the Dayton Parts site, but I could not find the bushing width, have you used this kit? And was the bushing 3.25” wide? Or did you have to add shims?
Brian The adjustable lower torque rod can be replaced with a fixed length one with a welded kit .
Brian go to the coach assist library ( common problems) l where you will find an article I wrote tilted (repair / replace torque rods) out lining the torque rods and replacement kits .
This is a link to the weldable kits for the rears ( they have a larger bolt hole than the fronts)