Rick, I’m no genius when it comes to this stuff, and others here can probably clarify things more, and may correct any misstatements I make. The following presumes you have a BIRD, but prior coaches had Echo units instead. I can never remember what year was last for Echos, despite Gerald informing me a few years back, but the BIRD introduction was pretty much a Monaco thing I believe.
To your 3 limited knowledge items:
1) Solar Panel does charge when sunlight is sufficient, and If I’m not mistaken it does so through the BIRD so when the House set is full at 13.4v the available amps are switched to the chassis set;
2) Alternator charges the chassis set to 13.4v while running, then the BIRD switches it (via the “Big Boy” solenoid) to charge the house set. This becomes a problem only when after dry-camping owners don’t run their genset before breaking camp. The alternator tries to recharge deep cycle house batteries and overheats, and can subsequently fail. Always run the generator to at least “Absorb” charge after dry camping or parked without 110v power;
3) Inverter’s built-in charger on Park or genset power charges the house set to 13.4v where the BIRD switches charging to the chassis set.
The solar controller and inverter and BIRD and battery temperature sensor pretty much work in harmony to prevent overcharging of either set. Just because you may see umpteen volts on the solar reading doesn’t mean that’s what’s getting hammered into the batteries.
Your Aladdin is telling you the state of charge of the devices it’s reporting, the solar panel is itself at 14.3v from the sun its receiving at the moment, and your house set is at 13.9v. Because there may be a draw from some device on the house batteries somewhere, they aren’t maxed out (my AGM’s typically read 14.1v or more in full sunlight and no load, as did my old wet cells). As to the Amp readings I’m not expert and mine often don’t make sense to me, but surmise yours indicate the panels are putting out 4.8 amps and the supposed draw on the house batteries is 4 amps. The panel (solar controller) likely wouldn’t read those amps if there wasn’t a draw downstream, 4 amps through the house set to some device somewhere, and 0.8a to keep the house or chassis set topped up (the house set is now over the 13.4v BIRD or Echo switchover point). Plus, I don’t think minor volt or amp discrepancies are accurate or meaningful on the Aladdin. To paraphrase a famous magazine character, A. E. Neuman: what, me fret?
Joel
