Replacement Radiator

[Scott Hinote]

Hi I’m looking for some help . I was finally able to get into position to be able to hose off my radiator from the engine side ( underneath the bed ) . Well after spraying Simple Green Extreme on the radiator I was then able to start spraying it down with my garden hose and it has a spray control on the end , I was using the rinse selection . As I started  rinsing it off good, I noticed red coolant leaking out onto the ground . I can’t tell where the leak is, I don’t think it all leaked out . Can the radiator be fixed by a radiator shop ? Or would I be better off replacing it ? I’ve got a Caterpillar 3126b 330 hp , 1999-2000 . Does anyone know where I might start to look for a radiator ? I’m sure that it’s probably got to be made by Caterpillar? Does anyone know what the part number is ? And I’ll just throw this in also , while it’s a part I would like to change the serpentine belt and tensioner pulley , maybe someone has those part numbers ? We were going to leave in 3 weeks but I’ve got to get this resolved first . At least it happened at my house , now if I can get it to someone . Thanks everyone I hope I can get through this I just spent 4200.00 on tires

[Eric Maclean Co-Admin]

Scott
Try here but they ain't cheap

https://radiatorsupplyhouse.com/pages/search-results-page?q=Beaver+patriot

You might consider a used on but of course you already have a used one.

https://rvchassisparts.visonerv.com/cgi-bin/f/usedrvradiators.pl?

Or

https://colawrvsalvage.com/

If you have a choice replace the rad complete with a regular copper core rad instead of an aluminum core with plastic tanks
The copper core steel tank units last longer .

[David T. Richelderfer]

Several years ago we had to replace our coach's radiator.  It was leaking at three of the four corners.  I found out the stock radiators were made in Louisiana or thereabouts and are renowned for their lack of longevity.  Our radiator has two cooling sections - the large section for engine coolant, either antifreeze or ELC, and the small section for oil cooling.  Thus, these radiators are rather complex and not cheap.

I ordered my new radiator from the Radiator Supply Warehouse in Sweethome, Oregon.  Delivery took a couple of weeks because these must be manufactured; they don't have them on the shelf.  The old aluminum radiator weighed about 160 pounds; the new copper, steel, and brass radiator weighed about 260 pounds.  The radiator cost was about $4,000 NOT including labor to swap them.

While the old radiator is out, have the repair technicians check the other equipment behind where the new radiator will be installed - belts, hoses, wires, CAC (Charge Air Cooler), cooling fan, etc.  My CAC held pressure so it was okay.

[Jerry Carr]

David has the best source Radiator Supply Warehouse in Sweethome, Oregon I did change our 06 radiator with the custom unit and it's still running

[Scott Hinote]

Wow 4000 dollars for a radiator a lone . I think it’s about time to throw the towel in with owning a diesel Motorhome . They are supposed to run forever but they don’t unless you practically replace everything that’s on the engine too help it run . Mine only has 86000 miles on it . I’ve had it a year and I’ve already spent 12 thousand dollars on it, and I think it’s in very good shape for it’s age . And now another 6 thousand for a radiator . And if that’s not enough and god forbid the motor was to go out, well it’s a total loss . I think I’d be money way ahead if I bought a Motorhome with a Ford Triton V10 . Just add gas and go, just like a car .

[Bill Lampkin]

Scott, We all know your frustrations, as we've all been there. One thing to keep in perspective is that your Triton V10 will likely need a new radiator too, after 22 years of service.

[Scott Hinote]

Yep Bill you are right it would certainly be old also .

[Eric Maclean Co-Admin]

Scott

If your ta is a copper core unit you may be able to have it repaired at any good radiator shop
But if it's an aluminum rad I have never seen a successful repair done.

[Scott Hinote]

I know it’s a old one , but just looking at it I would say Aluminum, but I might get lucky . I’m in the process of deciding what to do . I’m not sure about much, and if I could remove the radiator myself and then re- install it myself . I would go and give it a try, but I just think it’s too big of a job for me . So the next question is weather I’ll be able to make the drive to the radiator shop without overheating the engine . Which I really don’t want to do . It’s about a 45 minutes drive there , no interstate . I’ve got 2 gallons of new coolant to add incase it starts heating up . I thought that maybe I could watch the temperature and if it starts to get hot, then stop and let it cool down add some coolant and try again .

[Richard Davis]

Scott
I would not bother adding new coolant to cover the loss as you go to the shop.  Just carry a few gallons of distilled water to replace whatever you lose.  You are going to want to replace it all anyway.
Richard

[Eric Maclean Co-Admin]

Scott
I'm assuming you have a rear radiator coach were as my 1997 Patriot has a side radiator .
Looking at the RHS web site I found the copper steel brass rad for the 2000 - 2002 Patriot .

https://radiatorsupplyhouse.com/products/monaco-patriot-radiator-rsh-1040131-01805505-1040131-1040116-1003509-10401-32801-2000-2002-copper-brass-replacement-700131

Depending on your level of skill the rad is not a terrible job after you get the system drained it's a matter of removing the intercooler and anything else that may be in the way .it may require a helper or two to get the rad out as it is heavy  approx 200 pounds give or take .
It's more important to be careful not to damage the new rad going in but by then you will have taken out the old one which gives you a p?an of attack.
Pro tip cut a couple price of thin ply wood or heavy cardboard that can be removed after installation to protect the rad core from damage while installing.
Also while your there it's best to replace the hoses and clamps .

As for driving 45 miles with a leaking rad that's not a call I'd make ( Murphy's law almost always kicks in when tempting the gods)
However if you do decide to drive it to the shop Kee
 It full of coolant or at least water and run with the rad cap loose so as not to pressurize the system .
Hope this helps
Eric

[Scott Hinote]

Eric, that’s great information . I had know idea it would be that heavy . I’ve been thinking about pulling it out myself and taking it to the radiator shop , that would sure save me some money . I’m very scared about driving it there . If I do I’ll leave the cap lose, great idea . And I’ll have plenty of distilled water . If I try to drive it there . My plan is to pull over and stop way before the engine gets out of control . I don’t know what the redline temperature is, maybe 215 degrees , if I get to 210 degrees then I’ll pull over let it cool down add more water and try it again . I really wish I could do it myself . Maybe if I can get a strong young man to help . Thanks everyone for your help and I’ll let you know which way I go .

[Scott Hinote]

David R . Is the CAC , the same thing as the oil cooler you mentioned , or is there a intercooler and a oil cooler ?

[Eric Maclean Co-Admin]

Scott
CAC stands for charge air cooler which is the cooler that cools the air after it leaves the turbo charger before it is sent to the engines intake manifold.
It will likely be the same size as the radiator and mounted directly to or with the radiator to allow the fans air flow to cool the CAC as well.
There may also be a transmission cooler in the radiator stack

Hope this helps
Eric

[John Fitzgerald]

It doesn't sound like you are too much up for working on your radiator yourself, but I have had good success with JB Weld steel stick epoxy putty fixing unobtainable plastic/aluminum radiators.  If you can see where it is leaking and are able to get to the spot, it will make a semi-permanent repair.  If your radiator is corroded to the point that it is porous, it will not work probably.  I found that cutting a bamboo chop stick to the exact inter tube size was helpful if the leak is between tubes.  You can push the epoxy tight into the hole.  Of course you will be driving on a repaired radiator, and would need to keep an eye on it.  There may be a good truck radiator shop near you that will understand your needs and help you out.  Good luck