Cleaning Hurricane burner nozzle

[Joel Weiss]

Gerald--

I hate to ask a dumb question but I do not know how to get to the nozzle to clean it.  None of the documentation I have explains that; it shows the nozzle after it has been removed.  The clearances around my Hurricane box are extremely tight.  

My current problem with the system is that it will work fine for an hour or two of hard usage (~40 degree outside temp) then it starts throwing flame outs which increase in frequency until the system becomes unusable.  If you shut it off for a few hours it will seem to work fine and you can repeat the cycle.

Joel

[barbhalsell]

Ours is accessable under the front window panel, turn the set screw and pull the nozzle out.

[Gerald Farris]

Joel,
Cleaning the nozzle is fairly easy on a Patriot, however it is a little more involved on a Marquis. The difference is that is that the Stainless Steel panels have to be removed on the Marquis before you can see the Hurricane unit.

The first thing to do in cleaning the nozzle is to remove the 4 screws that hold the burner area cover plate (containing the burner sight glass) on the end of the unit. Then you will see the fuel block with 2 hoses running to it (one for fuel and one for pressurized air). Remove the hoses and unplug the wires, then loosen the wing screw, and the fuel block will slide out of the burner tube. The nozzle is screwed into the fuel block and will be visible when the fuel block is removed. A complete breakdown of the unit is on our website at:  http://beaveramb.org/PDF/PDF%20Manuals/Hurricane%20Owners%20Manual/Hurricane_manual_R4.pdf

There is also a YouTube video on line that explains how to service the burner chamber at: http://itrheat.com/products/hurricane-heating-systems/support/training-videos/

Your problem may not be caused by a dirty nozzle, however that is a good place to start in troubleshooting. You may also have air in the fuel from a defective nozzle "O"ring or improperly sealed hose connection hose connection. There is also a possibility of low fuel delivery rate from a weak fuel pump. Most of these problems can be diagnosed by bleeding the fuel system and watching for fuel flow and air volume in the fuel, or listening to the burner as it is running. Air in the fuel, especially from a nozzle "O"ring will cause a popping as the flame burns.

Gerald

  

[Joel Weiss]

Gerald:

Thanks for the info; I had the owner's manual but the "front view" picture in 2-1 lacks many of the labels (they got blanked out) so I didn't realize that the was burner assembly.  In Section 6.4 the nozzle is shown having been removed from the assembly.  The connection I wasn't making was between those two pictures.

I know where the bleed valve is located (on the top of the unit).  I assume that the fuel being bled goes down a tube and ends up underneath the coach where I can catch it in a container.  Is this correct?  With respect to bleeding the fuel line, the manual says to turn the valve one turn "while the system is running."  I gather there is no harm in firing it up and then opening the valve or am I supposed to put it into some sort of servicing mode?

Regardless of what the specific issue is, it's probably worth my going by Vancouver WA since parts are going to be needed one way or another.  We've had enough intermittents this winter that I'd like to make sure everything works well for next season.

Joel

[Gerald Farris]

Joel,
You bleed the air from the fuel system with the Hurricane fuel pump running. This is easiest to do when the system burner is on. You can also open the bleeder and turn on the system. The fuel pump will come on to try to ignite the burner, so you can bleed the system then, however the pump will only run until the system sets a fault code if the burner does not ignite. This method is used to bleed the system after a repair that has introduced large amounts of air into the system like fuel pump or filter replacement.

Some, but not all coaches have a hose that is attached to the bleeder valve and terminates below the Hurricane compartment. On these coaches it is easy to catch the fuel that is bleed from the system by placing a container below the end of the hose.

There are some Hurricanes that simply drain the fuel on top of the unit when the bleeder is opened. On these coaches I would strongly suggest that a hose should be added to drain the exhausted fuel below the compartment instead of draining into the compartment.

Gerald  

[Jeremy Parrett]

Hi Joel,
  Gerald is correct in his description of this unit. My Hurricane suffered from exactly the same problem as you describe. After removing the access panel to the compartment,  I removed the square stainless steel panel on the Hurricane burner unit. The flame sensor (the only electrical wire that goes to the burner holder) needs to be removed.  Then you can  loosen the screw that holds the burner in place and slide it out. I did not remove any fuel lines. I unscrewed the burner nozzle.  Dissembling the nozzle to clean it is easy; just be careful not to loose the tiny parts. Its probably got a beard of unburnt fuel on the outlet. Carb cleaner works well.  Reassemble the nozzle, install it and connect the flame sensor: replace the stainless steel panel, and then start the Hurricane. Open the bleed valve fully.......mine has a return line to the fuel tank.......I bled it for 5 minutes.....the furnace ran during this process.......the fuel pump will run faster than normal to compensate ......when you close the valve the pump speed will audibly slow down to normal and the furnace will keep running.  Mine has now run 5 months without stopping !!
I treat the diesel with Biobor algaecide  . One day I will install a marine diesel filter to replace  the small cartridge filter the Hurricane has.

[Joel Weiss]

Thanks for all the detailed advice.  I'm going to try to clean the nozzle later this week when I have a free day.  Between Jeremy and Gerald I now have enough knowledge to approach this with reasonable confidence.  
Joel

[Jeremy Parrett]

Joel,
Just remember to switch the Hurricane off on the outer panel; switch off the thermostat and the remote switch.  Once you have cleaned the nozzle,   you will see how simple it is to do.  Make sure the O seal on the nozzle is OK.......it is probably fine.

[Joel Weiss]

Thanks to everyone for their assistance.  The job turned out to be even easier than you said (which was a pleasant surprise).  The nozzle did, indeed, have a "beard" of unburnt fuel on the outside.  I disassembled the nozzle, sprayed everything with carb and choke cleaner, re-installed, bled the fuel line (although I hadnt' disconnected anything) and now we've been operating for 20 minutes without an issue.  Since that is a lot longer than it had been able to operate I am hopeful that the problem has been resolved.

Joel

[Jeremy Parrett]

Joel,
Congratulations.  Ours, touch wood, has now run for 5 months without hesitation.  
I would highly recommend using Biobor JF to kill any algae in the diesel tank.  
I am going to install a Racor fuel filter/seperator in the Hurricane fuel line.
Last time the Hurricane failed, in December 2010, Lazydays in Florida serviced it.  All it needed was the nozzle cleaning.  The bill was $150.

[Joel Weiss]

I still plan on stopping by the ITR factory in Vancouver WA when we pass by later this summer.  We have ~1,500 hours on our system (not all that much considering it is 12 yrs old), and I would like to get ITR's recommendation as to what might be worth replacing.  We have, I believe, the oldest version of the control board and I am interested in understanding the benefits of the more recent versions which, I believe, use photodiodes instead of the flame sensor.  Since I appeared to have experienced problems with my operating aquastat earlier this year I may let them replace it and a few other "wear items" as precautionary repairs.   We're thinking of going to Alaska in 2013 and I would like the system to be working well for that trip since heat will be important!  

[Mandy Canales]

Joel...If you're thinking of going to Alaska in 2013 you probably will never use your heater.  If you go between June 1 and September 1 you won't need heat.  We've been to Alaska 3 times, all driven, and had never had to use the heater.  However, getting the nozzle cleaned or a tune-up kit done would help the warmth in other months.  Safe travels.  Take your time and enjoy the Alaskan summers.
Mandy

[Joel Weiss]

Joel...If you're thinking of going to Alaska in 2013 you probably will never use your heater.  If you go between June 1 and September 1 you won't need heat.  We've been to Alaska 3 times, all driven, and had never had to use the heater.  However, getting the nozzle cleaned or a tune-up kit done would help the warmth in other months.  Safe travels.  Take your time and enjoy the Alaskan summers.
Mandy

Mandy:

Thanks for the advice; I made my "heat" comment based on the fact that we've sometimes needed heat in the summer while touring MT and WY.  My brain had assumed that similar issues would exist further north.  

Joel

[Bruce Benson]

Ruling out the need for heat during the Alaska summer, particularly in the coastal areas, might be folly.  Each year  is different.  Being wet and also cold can be quite uncomfortable.  Having a dry, warm place can be a real treat.  

[Joel Weiss]

We always leave our Hurricane set for both heat and hot water.  There are plenty of nights even in the summer when the heat kicking on in the early morning hours has been quite nice; it all depends where you are.