If the problem was actually caused by the tire incident, then it could be coming from any number of refrigerator components that might have been jostled loose. I set our fridge to cool to about 38 which is adequate and won't freeze veggies in the bottom drawer, but yours should still run to even less like it did before if you want it to. Take into account the effect of any ambient temperature difference between now and before the incident - is it much warmer outside now than it was, making the refer work harder?
Your gas should cool as least as well as electric, so I'd check that there are no loose leaking nuts in the propane line, including all the way forward to the tank. But just before I did that, I'd make sure the air tube going to the burner wasn't knocked katty wampus and is still providing the proper blue flame; and be sure the ignition at the burner is clean, still gapped right, and working consistently. Did any debris, insulation, or dirt get knocked loose and fall into the burner flue, partially blocking it, or is anything now blocking the venting components, esp. on the roof or sidewall, or around the condensor tubing on the back of the refer? Since both the electric and gas functions have diminished, checking ventilation would seem a good first move.
That's where I'd start, but after that it begins to get hairy, because any number of electrical components, 12 volt or 120 volt, could have been bumped loose, from a simple screw connector to a circuit board component. And if the coach was off level for any length of time, say parked beside the road on a grade, after the blowout, you may have gained a bubble in the system that's blocking coolant flow, a serious situation usually resolved only by replacing the cooling unit. After examining obvious connections, I'd then consider checking reviews of local RV service providers, and having a "pro" look at it. If you provided us with a location, perhaps a buddy on the Forum could recommend a facility or meet you to have a look himself.
Joel
