IDS Leveling system won't retract

[Bill Johnson]

Hi Jerry,
I have an extra brain, but I thought it had to be programmed to work and the software to do that is proprietory (and in the hands of BCS).  Am I mistaken on this and I really can switch out the existing brain with my new one?
Bill

[Steve Huber]

Bill,
My 01 Contessa had a bad landing pad that caused a jack to hang up in the down position. I don't remember if the other jacks would retract or not with the one jack stuck.  In any case, you may want to try moving the coach just a few inched to see if that frees up the jacks (assuming you are on level ground).
I live in Chandler so if you need some help. let me know and I'll email you my phone #.
Steve

[Bill Johnson]

Steve,
Thank you so much.  I sent you an email with my pertinant info. l I look forward to hearing from you.  
And, the latest news is that I have a call into Bend and waiting for a response.  The saga continues.
Bill

[Steve Huber]

Bill,
Haven't received your email yet. Send me one at shuber4@cox.net or PM me on forum.
Steve

[Karl Welhart]

Something else came to mind... A poor ground on the manifold/solenoid could very cause this problem.

[Bill Johnson]

Karl,
At this point we have found that the solenoids are working and are now focusing on the relay that is located in the electrical bay in front of the driver's side front wheel.  
Thanks for the suggestion.
Bill

[Bill Johnson]

While we are tracking down the problem with our leveling system, I am thinking of replacing the "brain" of the system.  I have a new one but don't know if it has to be programmed (and if so it is something I can do) before it will work properly.
Bill

[Edward Buker]

Bill,

If your current brain is working (acts normally when you go into a leveling cycle) I would not add another variable until I had sorted out the cause. If that leads you to the controller then by all means try it. Alliance or BCS should know if programming is required. If it is just a matter of zeroing in on the true level aspect of the calibration I have adjusted mine using washers under screws to compensate without any programming.

Later Ed

[Bill Johnson]

Greetings all.  A solution has been found!  Thanks to all of you who provided sage advice and suggestions as well as offers to provide help and/or parts.  Thanks to your advice and my sons help, we found the source of the problem:  the bypass valve relay.  We replaced that and now all is working well.
Thanks again for all the advice and support.
Bill

[Edward Buker]

Bill,

Can you photo the bypass relay location and add it to this thread. If someone has this problem we can then go straight to the problem relay and test it out. Good find on your part! You must feel very good indeed and how great you worked on it with your son.

Later Ed

[Bill Johnson]

Thanks for the suggestion, Ed.  I will take a couple of pictures tomorrow and attempt to post them.  And yes, it was not only good to solve the problem, but even better to do it with my son.  Father-son bonding is always a good thing!

[Steve Huber]

Bill,
Glad to hear you found the problem. If you need help posting pictures, there is a "sticky" in the General Discussion section that provides the how to in resizing and posting pictures or give me a call.
Steve

[Bill Johnson]

Here is the first of three photos of the bypass valve relay and its location in the electrical bay (driver's side, in front of front tire).  Note, the bypass relay is the one on the right side of the relay with the green tag.

[Bill Johnson]

Second of three photos of bypass valve relay

[Bill Johnson]

The third picture was the same as the second, so no third picture will be posted.  If the two are not sufficient or if you would like additional information, please let me know.
Bill