Veneer Softener for Veneer repairs?

[Bruce Sieloff]

I have a long standing separation of the veneer in the aft pocket door that I would like to repair. Reading the forum the hot ticket seems to be a palette knife and the appropriate veneer glue. My problem is that the veneer is VERY stiff and the panel is the inside panel next to the opening, a far reach from the edge of the door and with a full length mirror on the other side, making clamping a challenge. I am concerned about being unable to get the veneer to fully seat flat without lifting after the glue dries. I found a veneer softener called Super-Soft 2
http://www.veneersupplies.com/products/Super-Soft-2-Veneer-Softener-Conditioner.html
which is supposed to be a miracle solution for softening unruly veneer and supposed safe for all finishes. I am reluctant to just spray this stuff on lacquered veneer and see what happens. Has anyone had any experience with veneer softeners on Beaver woodwork?

[Larry Dedrick]

Bruce:
          I don't see how a product could make the veneer more pliable, if applied to the lacquered side. I would try heating the veneer slightly to see if that will work.

           Hope this may help.            Larry D

[Steve Huber]

Bruce,
Apply heat with a heat gun and they should flatten out. Glue with good (e.g. Gorilla wood glue) glue while flat as they will tend to want to curl again when cool.
Steve

[Edward Buker]

Bruce,

I have not had to glue veneer on my pocket doors yet but I had thought about how one might handle that issue if I had the problem. My thought was to position the door so that some synthetic shim shingles can be wedged between the pocket surround and the lifting veneer on the door panel. Probably have to shim both sides to hold the panel rigid. On the exposed edge of the door, away from the pocket, the lifting veneer should be able to glued using clamps and wood blocks.

I have not had good luck with the Gorilla glue that foams and expands, while it may be strong, in my case it hard to keep it just where you want it. Gorilla makes a good white glue that I would use but I personally like Tightbond, some wax paper, and the use of a palette knife. I think the Tightbond seems to work into the tight spaces a bit better. I clamp once to remove the excess glue, wiping it with a dampened cloth, and then clamp it again. I use the palette knife to shear the second clamping excess when the glue is partially dry.

I have not tried Steve's heat gun idea but it sounds like it would be a help. Good luck and let us know how the repair works out.

Later Ed