Driver's Side Slide Hydraulic Hose

[Jerry Emert]

As you may remember we had an issue with the slide creeping out while were driving.  Finally got someone to look at it.  It was at a RV repair shop for over a month and a half and they never got to it.  Anyway, the local CAT (Ring Power) agreed to try to fix it.  They found that the whole hydraulic hose needs to be replaced.  They are afraid to tackle it because they say it runs through frame rails and they would have to cut sheet metal.  Not sure what sheet metal but he thought they may have to cut through back of bays and other stuff.  I did suggest that they just replace the whole hose and reroute as necessary as I have seen references to here.  He is afraid they will mess something up.  I appreciate his concern.  He isn't even charging me for what they did.  An RV shop would still charge me 1k just to have it sit on their lot for a month and look at it for 10 minutes!
Anyway, my question, has anyone dealt with one of these before?  Is there an easier way?  Any recommendations in Orlando area?  Not being a mechanic I'm kind of lost here.  Thanks.
Jerry

[Roy Warren Co-Admin]

In my '99PT, I had to replace that hose.  A good mechanic or RV shop can replace it by following the frame rails and installing a new hose.  I had it replaced with 3000psi rated, double wrapped  military grade line.  I was able to get this in San Diego.  I would probably try to get to Alliance if in Florida.
Roy Warren

[Gerald Farris]

Jerry,
Like stated in numerous post before on this forum, you just disconnect the hose or hoses you are replacing, and cap them at both ends to prevent the oil inside of them from slowly dripping under the coach for several months. Then you run a new hose through an accessible route that may or may not be similar to the original route and secure it with tie wraps and/or shielding to prevent chaffing on any sharp edges.

On a replacement hose, I prefer at least a 2 wire braided hose with a 5,000 lbs. working pressure. It is a little more expensive than the 1 wire braided 2,500 lbs. hose that Monaco used on your coach. It is a little stiffer to bend, making it a little harder to work with, but it is a far superior hose.

Gerald 

[Bill Sprague]

Alliance replaced that hose on our '04 Monterey years ago.  The did a good job.  The factory had run the original through a frame hole with sharp edges. 

[Jerry Emert]

Thanks all!  I suggested that they just pick a route and run a new hose.  He swore that they would have to remove the water tank and cut through something that looked like sheet metal.  He was very concerned about breaking something so I guess I'll try to get it to Alliance.  Supposed to be hitting the road 1 April.  Not likely now.  Thanks again.
Jerry

[Roy Boles]

You might have a talk with a hydrolics shop. Im sure they have dealt whith this sort of problem before.

[Karl Welhart]

Jerry,

I have assisted in many of these replacements.  It can be done very easily by just taking the replacement hose with one fitting installed on the end going to the manifold.  Connect that end with a union fitting to the old hose fitting from the slide cylinder and pull through the chassis rail. 

There may be a few times when it gets tight, but just put a little vaseline over the fittings and it should go right through.  The basement bulkhead (chassis rail meets the back of the coach in front of engine area) is just spray foam sealant and the hose will go right through that material. 

Connect the new hose to the hydraulic manifold and then install hose fitting on the slide cylinder end, purge the air, and job is complete.

[Joe Moreschi]

Jerry I had the same problem with mine and ended up running the two new hoses from the manifold block under the coach fastening it every rib on the bottom up through a hole I made and made the connection while abandoning the old lines. Too hard and impossible any other way. If you were to crawl under you could see the lines but it was fast and works fine.Good luck whatever way you decide

[Fred Brooks]

  Hi Jerry,
 Pirtek is a nationwide hydraulic mobile repair service that will come to you. They charge by the 15 minutes and do good work. Advise them to route the hoses safely but not down the frame rails as it is not feasible. I would suggest replacing both hoses.
  Regards, Fred

[Jerry Emert]

Fred, that sounds like a great idea!  Can they get the Beaver off the ground to work on it?
Thanks
Jerry

[Fred Brooks]

Hi Jerry,
   I looked at their website and they have a location in Orlando. Give them a call.
Regards, Fred

[Jerry Emert]

Maybe worth a new post but a continuation so...when we post about lifting the coach, everyone says to block the coach or frame.  Again, Navy Electronics and retired Cop here!  What exactly are you talking about?  Do I just go slip a 2X4 in between the frame and the house?  More elaborate?  I should have started with Pirtek is coming tomorrow to fix the hydraulic hose (thanks again Fred!)  Every time I try to have this fixed the tech will remark about how low to the ground the coach is and promptly say they can't do it.  I'm trying to get my ducks in a row before they arrive.  I talked to one of their managers this AM and he mentioned using the coach levelers, mine are SMC.  That make me a little nervous because they are on the same system as the slides.  I guess I'm just getting a little punchy on this problem.  People have been refusing to do it since the Balloon Festival in NM in October!  Any guidance or advice is appreciated. 
Jerry

[Gerald Farris]

Jerry,
There are 2 ways to block (safety stands or blocks) your coach and a Pirtek technician should know both methods. The first method is to use blocks, very heavy duty jack stands, or a combination thereof between the main frame rails and the ground. The other option is to use heavy blocks (not a 2x4) between the sub frame and the main frame. This is usually done besides the air bag to keep the coach at maximum height for an extended air bag even if the air bag (or in your case the SMC jack) happens to loose pressure and try to lower the coach.

Gerald   

[Jerry Emert]

Jerry,
There are 2 ways to block (safety stands or blocks) your coach and a Pirtek technician should know both methods. The first method is to use blocks, very heavy duty jack stands, or a combination thereof between the main frame rails and the ground. The other option is to use heavy blocks (not a 2x4) between the sub frame and the main frame. This is usually done besides the air bag to keep the coach at maximum height for an extended air bag even if the air bag (or in your case the SMC jack) happens to loose pressure and try to lower the coach.

Gerald   
Gerald, thank you that makes it easy to understand!
Jerry

[Joel Ashley]

No way would I use just a 2X4 under there.  Not even under a regular car much less something with more weight on each of its front corners than an entire pickup truck.

Because our farm buildings were framed 120 years ago with local timber, Dad had several 12”X12”X18” Douglas fir pieces around.  They were plenty stout under any machine or building needing repair.  The last one finally rotted in our new home’s back yard a few years back, so I got 2 new 4 ton jack stands and a 12 ton bottle jack from Sears. 

They stow easily in a coach bay.  Heavier stands are available, but these stow easier and would work as long as prudently used, carefully taking RVSEF coach corner weights into consideration, fully loaded on the road or empty here at home.  I know some here question jack stand use, but I reiterate my use of the term, “prudently used”, and I’d allow plenty of weight range leeway, doubling up the jacks as indicated.  All that said, I do wish I still had one of those old timbers .

http://www.sears.com/tools-mechanics-auto-tools-lift-equipment-jacks/b-1021324?Lift%20%26%20Jack%20Type=Jack%20stands&filterList=Lift%20%26%20Jack%20Type

Joel