Skylight replacement

[Marilyn Ruta]

Existing skylight cracked, inner panel distorted. Rough opening measures 23” x 23”. Cannot seem to find exact size to replace it. Any ideas?

[David T. Richelderfer]

Take a look here.

https://www.skylightdepot.com/

Maybe this one?

https://www.skylightdepot.com/collections/replacement-rv-domes/products/25-50-x-25-50-polycarbonate-skylight-dome-outside-your-rv?variant=12450920333354

[Paul Meehan]

Check with Mike Premus at Beaver Coach Sales Parts (541-322-2184 ext. 683).

Part number FD3-2424B2IB-6; Skylight 24x24 1994-2003 (Mont/Pat/Contss).

In August 2018 price was $161.00 ships in "special" box at $25.

I had a 2001 Patriot and bought one.

Good luck!

Paul

[Keith Moffett Co-Admin]

Marilyn
BCS is my first stop.  I do look further but I use BCSwhen ever its close.
They had the skylight for our 98 Beaver in stock.
Dont use the heat and strip method just get an oscillating tool.  Way way better.

[Marilyn Ruta]

What sealant do you use to seal skylight to roof surface?

[David T. Richelderfer]

The short answer is Dicor Self-leveling Sealant.

There are several youtube videos you can watch, as well.  Do a GOOGLE Search using the search argument "videos to replace an rv skylight".  Lots of good information on these videos.

[Keith Moffett Co-Admin]

Use Dicor.  Easiest to work with.

[Marilyn Ruta]

Thanks but there will never be any more Dicor on anything I own ....ever. Just removed a couple of gallons of failed Dicor from the roof. There are far too many better sealants available.

[Joel Ashley]

If it was Dicor and it failed, it was likely because someone didn’t properly prepare the surface and apply it per directions.  You’ll find few if any here who’d not recommend self-leveling Dicor for your task.  BCS replaced our skylight some years ago and I believe used it for the job.  It’s shown no sign of deterioration, exposed full time to year-round elements.

Joel

[Marilyn Ruta]

I have removed everything from the roof except the AC units. Every hole, vent and screw was covered in Dicor. Every one had leaked or was still leaking. The repair procedure ( recommended by Dicor ) is to clean the old Dicor with solvent And apply more Dicor over the old. If I have a product that has failed or is failing why would I apply more of the same over it? Every sealant I have ever worked with says apply to a clean, dry, warm surface after removing old sealant. There are literally hundreds of other products that will last almost forever. I think I will be using a silicone product of some sort, just have to decide which one of the hundreds available that is best suited for this application. I plan on covering with Eternabond anyway so caulking is just insurance in case the Eternabond should fail at some point.

[Eric Maclean Co-Admin]

Hi Marc
I'm with Joel on this one .
The Doctor may have dried out over the years and cracked creating leaks but first you should take into consideration the number of years bit has been up there in the sun if it's the original it was way over due for replacement on a 22 year old coach.
Average life is 10 years and less in harsh environment like sun beaten Arazona.

You are correct about putting new over old the corrections do state that it is an acceptable practice but it's never as good a fix as a good old strip and start over.
I've worked on RVs for  more than 25'years and wouldn't use anything but a good self leveling sealant like Dicor on a roof.
It's a big job to remove all the old sealant but it is truly the only way to get a good factory looking job that you can be proud of.
And by the way a good silicon can be as hard or harder to get old and depending on the product don't stand up well to UV light

What ever you decide on make sure the old product is completely removed and the surface is cleaned and dry I use acatone on fiber glass for the final clean up and have never had Dicor fail to seal.

You're gone this far I'd lift the AC units and replace the foam gaskets while you're at it they have likely dried out or hardened up too.

Just me two cents worth
Good luck with your project
Eric

[Fred Brooks]

   Marc & Fellow Members,
  Seeing that you have gone this far, I would replicate what all quality Coach manufactures do. BTW NEVER EVER use any silicone caulking on a roof. The sun will turn it into non-sealing slippery rubber, what a mess!
  After cleaning down to the original surface, Apply Butyl tape sealant. Usually 1" wide by 1/8" or 3/16" thick around the perimeter of the opening. Re-install the removed component and replace the screws with the next size larger in diameter. Example" if the roof vent had #8 by 1" hex head screws, Replace with #10 by 1" screws (never any longer than original). Next apply the secondary sealant over the perimeter of the component. Overlap the edge by at least 1" on each side. I use Dicor "NON self-leveling" and apply a circular motion about the size of a Quarter as I go. Next, use a throw away paint brush and VERY slowly go over the dicor and flatten it out as you go around the component. I go in one direction and then do it again going in the other direction. Remember to go very slow. In about 15 minutes it will "level" out and look exactly like the original factory application. Coach is good to go for the next 3 years but inspect ever year for your peace of mind. I think Eric will agree. Fred

[Gerald Farris]

Marc,
I have to agree with Eric and Fred in that there is no way that I would use anything but Dicor to seal an RV roof. Silicone sealers used on a roof will not last in the constant sunlight.

Gerald