Steering Column Cover removal

[RogerMilne]

Can someone tell me how to pull the 4 brass looking pins, 2 each side of the steering column, so I can remove the headlight dimmer switch?
I don't want to force anything, but it looks like press in pins that secure the outer case of the column.

Thanks

[Steve Huber]

Roger,
Have you verified the dimmer switch is bad? You can check it by checking continuity between pin 30 of the headlight relay R11 and VCB-11 (low beam) and VCB-12 (high beam). All points are on the PCB in the front electrical bay.
Steve

[RogerMilne]

Roger,
Have you verified the dimmer switch is bad? You can check it by checking continuity between pin 30 of the headlight relay R11 and VCB-11 (low beam) and VCB-12 (high beam). All points are on the PCB in the front electrical bay.
Steve

Hey Steve,
Yes, I've tested the aforementioned circuits and I have continuity through pin 30 on R11 to VCB-12, but nothing at VCB-11. I checked the switch several times but get nothing through VCB-11.

So the removal of the column cover was more in line with wire tracing than removal of the dimmer switch. Here's why.

I have the SM211 schematic and I'm trying to match wires to pins. The PO has cut and tapped into Lo Beam wire and ran a feed to the low beam wires at the bulb connectors. I explained this in the other post I had running about the Dimmer Mod and Light bar. As it turns out there's no Dim Headlight mod'. The wiring I removed was entirely for a relay setup for Hi'Lo beams on the headlights and Light bar. So assuming that all I would do is re-connect the cut wire directly and be back in business, but the Lo beam circuit is compromised somewhere.
The schematic shows P6 connector which I have and appears to be wiring matching the control buttons under the horn pad.
I have another connector P2 which doesn't seem to match the wiring numbers to labeling on the wire. but it is as follows and the confusing part is 3 separate wires one of which was cut by the PO and where this mysterious Lo beam feed came from.

Hopefully this makes sense.

The 3 separate connectors from the column to coach harness are as follows.
Wire #69 - Hi Beam
Wire #67 - Headlight Lo/Hi Switch
Wire #68 - Lo Beam ( this wire was cut and tapped to feed the low beam bulb connectors at the headlamps.

P6 connector from column is marked with wires on one side of the connector to Coach harness connector with the following.
Wire #13 - Lt Fr Turn
Wire #12 - Rt Fr Turn
Wire #11 - Lt RR Turn Brake
Wire #10 - Rt RR Turn Brake
Wire #71 - Flasher Out
Wire #294 - Flasher Out
Wire #27 - Brake Switch Out

Again the only issue at the moment is I have ALL Marker Lights. Turn Signals. Hazard Flashers. Hi Beam.
But when I select Lo Beam the #69 Dimmer Fuse blows.

[Steve Huber]

Roger,
Suggest a different and maybe simpler approach. Remove both low beam bulbs and the DRL relay and see if fuse still blows. If it does, short is between dimmer switch low beam output and bulbs or DRL relay. If not replace components one at a time to see which path causes the short.
I'm assuming you've removed the wire added by the PO and repaired the wiring so you have a single wire running from the low beam output of the dimmer switch to VCB-11. That should take the steering column /smart wheel out of the problem'
BTW where are you getting the wire #s  you listed as I don't see them on SM-211 or 380850026.
Steve

[RogerMilne]

Roger,
Suggest a different and maybe simpler approach. Remove both low beam bulbs and the DRL relay and see if fuse still blows. If it does, short is between dimmer switch low beam output and bulbs or DRL relay. If not replace components one at a time to see which path causes the short.
I'm assuming you've removed the wire added by the PO and repaired the wiring so you have a single wire running from the low beam output of the dimmer switch to VCB-11. That should take the steering column /smart wheel out of the problem'
BTW where are you getting the wire #s  you listed as I don't see them on SM-211 or 380850026.
Steve

I'll disconnect the low beam bulb connectors, and I'll see where the DRL relay is and remove that. Just so I mention it, there is a DRL connector on the firewall in the front headlight/ Generator bay. The PO had removed the original headlamp units and replaced them with after market ones. I only know this because I have an un-used DRL connector hanging in the front bay area and the headlamp units are secured to the headlamp hole by custom made brackets.
The "so called" tapped in wire, I did remove it and remade the connection to the one plug connector #68 wire from the steering column, so as I said earlier I thought it would be a simple remove the T and splice back to single wire. BUT it's that wire when I turn on Lo beam that causes fuse #69 to blow. I have it disconnected currently until I trace where that wire goes from harness to headlights and what's in between is the problem ( I believe ).

As for the wiring numbers. That's the numbers printed on the wires coming off the column. The connector ( I assumed was P6 ) then goes off into the madness under the dash, BUT with the printed wire description, hence, why I labeled them as such in the post. I have NO clue what those numbers mean, which is why I was attempting pull deeper into the column wiring to see if I could identify them.

[Steve Huber]

Where did the "unused" DRL connector come from? Is it the OEM unit or one added by the PO? The DRL relay is 20, above VCC in the lower right section of the PCB.

[RogerMilne]

Where did the "unused" DRL connector come from? Is it the OEM unit or one added by the PO? The DRL relay is 20, above VCC in the lower right section of the PCB.

It looks factory. I'll take a pic tomorrow.
I'm trying to get pics of the wires and numbering uploaded after I get them resized to be able to view on this page.

[RogerMilne]

Here’s some pics of the wires from the steering column to the P6 connector.

[RogerMilne]

Hey Steve,
Here’s the DRL connector. I assume this was factory install.
The other pic is the make shift headlight and wire pin connectors. Which I’m not sure if those flat pin connectors are factory or not as the headlights are after market.

[Steve Huber]

Roger,
Looks like the PO really messed up the wiring from the looks of his DRL hack. Best bet seems to be to continue to see if you can locate cause of the low beam short as we've been discussing. Once that is resolved you should be able to straighten out the remaining mess.
Steve

[RogerMilne]

Roger,
Looks like the PO really messed up the wiring from the looks of his DRL hack. Best bet seems to be to continue to see if you can locate cause of the low beam short as we've been discussing. Once that is resolved you should be able to straighten out the remaining mess.
Steve

Yeah it’s the story of my life with this rig and the wiring. At least it’s just one circuit to figure out where the compromise is.
That being said any clue on how I remove the column surround, so I can at least access the dimmer switch and wiring to check those out??

Thanks for the continued help.

[Steve Huber]

To just check functionality you can check for continuity between pin 30 of RL30 and VCB-11 (low beam) or VCB-12 (high beam). However you want to check for an  added wire(s), you need to get access to the switch or use a wire toner/tracer. I found mine invaluable in tracing wires in our coach. They are available on Amazon for around $30 and up. If I remember correctly the dimmer switch was on the turn signal stalk. The attached may help. 
Steve

[RogerMilne]

Thanks Steve. That picture helps tremendously. It’s just snapped on to the posts.
I have a wire tracer and will trouble shoot with it next week when I get back home.

[James Blackwell]

I've got a 1996 Monterey that I want to remove the cap (the horn button) to the steering wheel. I thought this thread might cover that, but it did not. Does anyone know how to do that. I can send a picture if needed. Would appreciate any help.
James Blackwell
1996 Beaver Monterey

[RogerMilne]

I've got a 1996 Monterey that I want to remove the cap (the horn button) to the steering wheel. I thought this thread might cover that, but it did not. Does anyone know how to do that. I can send a picture if needed. Would appreciate any help.
James Blackwell
1996 Beaver Monterey

I can only speak for for my year but if you grab the top left of the horn pad and gentle pull straight up it’ll pop off the snap that holds it. Then do the same at the top right then bottom left and right. It feels like you’re going to break the pad but the little plastic snaps do pop away just don’t try and be aggressive with them and they’ll come away with minimal effort. Putting it back on start at the top left again and then top right and just gently press down and you’ll feel them pop back into place.

Hope this helps.