Chassis disconnect switch

[Mike Jones]

Fred.

Will do

Thanks again

[Joel Ashley]

The continuous duty ignition solenoid in my Monterey and many others is Cole Hersee 24059, but you should check the model numbers on yours.  See online if it’s continuous duty, and if not there’s at least part if not all of your problem;  someone installed the wrong solenoid.  But also don’t assume the Cole Hersee 24059 is correct for your specific Marquis;  others here may know, or call BCS in Bend.

http://colehersee.com.au/product/spst-12v-85a-continuous-duty-solenoid/

It’s available at numerous auto parts outlets and Amazon.  If you do determine to replace it, take note of the diode between the small posts and make sure you put it the same way on the new device... with its stripe on your left.



Joel

[Eric Maclean]

Hey guys the ignition solenoid is the switching gear for the automotive accessories and is powered by the chassis batteries.
As witch a failure should cause either accessory power all the time or no accessory power at all ( ie lights,heater,etc)
In either case it should not connect the coach batteries to the chassis batteries unless I'm missing something .

How ever the boost solenoid if stuck in the closed position would cause the two battery banks to be connected together.
And if the system has an echo charger or Magnum battery combiner the problem may be found there .
But as Fred pointed out the first place to look would be that propane detector I've heard of a  couple of those wired wrong.
Eric

[Mike Jones]

I checked the propane detector. It is the original and the red wires are connected separately. So I will keep looking.

Thanks

[Fred Brooks]

       Mike, I know this is difficult and extremely hard for us out there in forum land. The last thing we want to do is send you down some rabbit trail. Now that we know that you have a handle on troubleshooting we need to figure out how to divide and conquer this enigma. On the frame rail behind the battery tray is an insulated lug. This is the distribution point that the 12 volt house battery sends voltage to various loads. I would disconnect the chassis battery and start tracing how far the house 12 volt power goes before it stops. Hope this helps, Fred

[Mike Jones]

Fred, I will take a look at it. Trying to finish up my dash ac also. Compressor froze up. Always something, never boring.  lol

[Bill Lampkin]

Others may have said this already, but I'll take a stab; If the chassis sw shuts off all power, the problem must be ahead of the chassis switch, that is, between the chassis battery and the chassis switch. This may sound too simple, but have you simply taken the house + cable and reattached it to the house switch? Careful with all the sparks!

[Fred Brooks]

     Mike,
  Have you checked the salesman switch solenoid to see if that is allowing 12 volt to pass thru it when the battery switch at the entry door is turned on? (the solenoid with black oval). Fred

[Eric Maclean]

Mike
I would check the coach battery grounds at both the batteries and the frame connection if the frame connection or cable has gone bad your coach batteries will be unusable.
If this is the problem someone may have bridged the boost solenoid to regain coach power .
I would Disconnect one side of the boost solenoid to see if you lose coach power this with check to see if that solenoid is activated if stuck closed .
If that kills the coach power then check the coach batteries grounds you could check that by simply connecting a booster cable from the batteries ground terminal to a good chassis  at or near the grounding point on the frame effectively bipassing the coach battery ground cable.
Hope this helps
Eric

[Mike Jones]

Fred. I checked the salesman switch and it let’s power go thru but if I shut the salesman switch off all the lights still work.

[Mike Jones]

Bill and Eric. I will try some cable tracing this weekend. I will look into your suggestions.
Thanks

[George Harwell]

Mike, after turning off the salesman switch you need to check the solenoid to see if it is passing through 12 volts. You could have a defective switch or solenoid that is not opening. Make sure the batterys are fully changed with clean terminals and disconnect shore power. With someone operating the switch you can put a voltmeter on the solenoid output to verify it’s operation. Good luck.

[Steve Huber Co-Admin]

Guys
All his symptoms seem to indicate his 12v coach power is coming from the chassis batteries, thus the salesman switch and solenoid don't have any effect.
Steve

[Mike Jones]

Everyone,

I spent some time looking at my electrical issue. I disconnected and cleaned and ohm tested my ground cables. Even connected jumper cables on the ground cable circuits. Disconnected all cables at terminal in basement. What I found is, I have a voltage feedback on the cable coming out of the coach to the terminal connection when it is disconnected from that terminal. I checked the solenoid in the electrical area under the drivers seat and I have some feedback on the ignition solenoid. @ 5 volts. So I am thinking I my have a relay stuck somewhere in the ignition circuit. Headed on vacation Friday, so will have to look more when I get back. At least I will have shore power while on vacation.

[Larry Fritz]

I have had two "somewhat similar" situations on my 98 Patriot.

1. My solar chargers were wired directly to the batteries bypassing everything. Easy  test is to put a dark color blanket over the panels to block all the light from the solar panel and see what your voltmeter says.

2. Mine has a huge screw together connector down underneath the main 12 volt door (below the driver seat with outside access.  I once had some kind of short I finally identified.  Rather than unscrew that big connector (it has like 40+ wires), I traced the issue and simply decided to add a wire that connected the intermittent internal connector short wire across the outside connector wire in that big bundle. Been fine now for over 10 years.  Now sure what is in and under your coach.  (bypassed that wire causing the problem)

Larry Fritz