Author Topic: Parking Brake Lockup  (Read 2417 times)

Ken Stacer

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Parking Brake Lockup
« on: April 30, 2021, 07:12:55 PM »
2008 Beaver Contessa 43 ft with a CAT 425 engine. 
Had a problem 3 weeks ago when the brake locked up after stopping to enter our RV Park.  We were only getting 65 PSI.  Then we were told we needed to replace the air dryer filter and the governor which we did.  We thought the problem was solved.  We are getting approximately 110 PSI at fast idle.  Today we were going away and the parking brake is still locked up and will not release.  Help!!! We don't know where to go next or exactly what to ask for to get it repaired properly.

Thank you

Ken & Lois Stacer 

David T. Richelderfer

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Re: Parking Brake Lockup
« Reply #1 on: April 30, 2021, 07:25:32 PM »
It sounds like your RV either has air leaks or a bad air compressor.  You should be seeing 120 to 130 psi on the dash gauge.  With air leaks, your compressor can't pump enough air to overcome the leaks.  You could also have a bad pressure regulator that won't let the pressure get high enough.
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Ken Stacer

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Re: Parking Brake Lockup
« Reply #2 on: April 30, 2021, 08:32:46 PM »
Are both f those items located in the engine compartment?  Do you have p0ictures of each of them?

Bryan Beamon

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Re: Parking Brake Lockup
« Reply #3 on: April 30, 2021, 09:06:04 PM »
Ken , go to u tube and watch how to adjust  a Bendix air governor and raise your air pressure to 130 psi for cut off. I do not know if this will solve your problem but it is where your psi should be at cut off. Our parking brake has been stuck on when we sit in damp weather.
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Ken Stacer

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Re: Parking Brake Lockup
« Reply #4 on: May 01, 2021, 01:30:22 PM »
Should the 130 PSI cut off be at idle or at a raised RPM?

Thank you

Ken Stacer

Fred Brooks

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Re: Parking Brake Lockup
« Reply #5 on: May 01, 2021, 02:58:11 PM »
   Ken,
  The pressure should be 120 PSI, It does not matter whether it gets there at idle or at fast idle. The way you know is when you hear the dryer blow off with a loud pssssst sound. It is more obvious when the engine is at idle rpm. Here is the sequence the air system goes thru if airing up from 0 psi in the air tanks. 1-dash "low air light" and warning buzzer on. 2- park brake will release at 35 to 40 psi, warnings continue. 3- At 65 to 75 psi the warnings will stop. 4- The dedicated rear brakes tank usually fills first, this is the red needle on older coaches or a separate gauge on newer coaches. 5- When the psi gets between 90 and 100, the accessory air tank starts to fill your air bags and raise to "travel height". 6- When both air tanks fill to 120 psi is when the air dryer purges. When driving, you will notice the accessory tank (green needle on older coaches or separate gauge) move from 120 psi down to 90 psi. This is because your suspension is consuming air as necessary to maintain a level ride height. When the governor sees that 90 psi, it tells the compressor to come back on and build pressure back up to 120 psi.
    I am not sure what your issue is. It needs professional attention and correction. The last thing want is your rear brakes partially engaged or "dragging" while in transit. Hope this helps, Fred
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Eric Maclean

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Re: Parking Brake Lockup
« Reply #6 on: May 01, 2021, 11:11:55 PM »
Ken
When you are all aired up (above 100 psi)
If you push the yellow parking brake release button in does it stay in on its own or pop back out.
With the coach aired up and engine shut off and the wheels chalked so it can not move release the parking brake watch the air pressure gauge it should drop slightly and hold steady if it continues to drop you have an air leak in the parking brake air circuit if so go to the rear of the coach and listen for an air leak under the rear axle area of the coach.
If the yellow knob stays in the next step is to check the air pressure at the spring applied parking brake chamber/s depending on the parking brake configuration.
If it is a transmission mounted drum brake configuration you may have a bad actuator cable or bad actuator chamber diaphragm or bake quick release valve and of course it could be something sticking in the brake assembly .
When the parking brake is cycled on and off you should be able to watch the drum brake ( at the rear of transmission) lever move as the actuator moves it on and off

Don't go under the coach without blocking it up so if the air where to go out of the air bags you won't be crushed
And when working on the parking brake make sure to chalk the wheels so it can't move or roll.
Be safe.

Hope this helps
Eric
« Last Edit: May 01, 2021, 11:28:03 PM by Eric Maclean »
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Eric Maclean

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Re: Parking Brake Lockup
« Reply #7 on: May 01, 2021, 11:38:42 PM »
Ken
Can you tell us what brake configuration your coach has .
Is it air over hydraulic disc brakes
Is it air operated disc brakes
Air operated drum brakes

Is the parking brake a transmission mounted drum brake
Or a differential mounted disc brake
1997 Patriot Yorktown
3126-B
2009 Chevy HHR
Roadmaster falcon tow bar
Demco Air Force one tow brake.

John Hughes

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Re: Parking Brake Lockup
« Reply #8 on: May 02, 2021, 10:14:02 PM »
Another possible issue that I had on my 2000 Patriot Thunder was the parking brake caliper (mounted on the differential with air/Hyd brakes) had broken inside and even with the brake released with the correct air pressure the caliper was still engaged. On mine it's a very poor design and extremely expensive to replace (parts only, $1700 + $250 for pads) and only available at BMC sales in OR. :'(