Entry door lock and deadbolt

[Fred Brooks]

  Preston,
Here is a picture of the linkage between the new door handle and the lock assembly. The clevis is the "U" shaped piece that determines the overall length of the rod. Loosen the lock nut (shown in the picture) to rotate the clevis to shorten 1 to 2 turns to remove excess slack in the overall travel to release the door lock. Don't forget to tighten the lock nut when done.
 Note: Your wife will appreciate not breaking her fingernails by yanking so hard on the handle to open the door! Ha Ha.
Fred

[Preston Nash]

Thanks Fred.  My door doesn't have nearly this much access to the parts.  I only have small access cutouts at the handle and the latch.  Your picture is a big help.  Now I know exactly what is behind all of the metal and I see what you are saying about adjusting the rod.  I'll be attacking this job in the next few days.  If I have any valuable info to pass along, I'll do so. 

[Eric Maclean]

Preston
In the coach assist library there is a manual for the PTL door which out lines how to make adjustments on your door.
It's in the tech Library under awnings and doors.
Many of the door related problems are related to the floating lock pin becoming siezed.
Hope this helps
Eric

[Preston Nash]

I've looked at that PTL document.   That looks like some valuable info, but I don't think it is the same as what I have on the 99 Marquis.  Mine has a Trimark latch with a separate Schlage deadbolt. 

[Eric Maclean]

Preston
It sounds like your 99 is much the same as my 97
The dead bolt is a stand alone unit
I believe all the PTL doors used Trimark handles and latch mechanisms
In the coach assist article that door uses a stand alone dead bolt as well .
The differences are on the older units like ours the sticker bolt uses a different design which still swivels up and down and the depth is adjusted by loosening the sticker pin and sliding it in or out to achieve the proper latch as described in the article
( easier)
In the article they show a door with an air seal which ours don't have.
And the cables you see in the picture are for the Posilock door hinge assembly at the top of the door which latches the door in the open position ( your coach may or may not have that )
The latch rod adjustments should be the same
Unfortunately to make the adjustments you will likely have to remove the inner door panel which will involve removing the dead bolt inner assembly and inner pull handle trim.
Once you get the inner door panel off your door should resemble the one pictured in the PTL article.

Links to Trimark inner and outer assembly

https://www.trimarkcorp.com/mobile/zPlatform.asp?platformid=13

https://www.trimarkcorp.com/sr/zPlatform.aspx?platformid=12


Hope this helps
Eric

[Fred Brooks]

   Preston,
My 2000 Marquis has a Schlage dead bolt. The door panel will have to be removed after the dead bolt is removed. Fred

[Eric Maclean]

Preston
Before you remove the dead bolt pay attention to its position in the door it's best to make some index marks so you can return it to it's original position in order to get the dead bolt to slide in and out as far as it should.

Eric

[Bryan Beamon]

Preston, suggest you go to you tube and put in "Monaco door adjustment " and view the 2  videos to help in your door fix.

[Preston Nash]

I replaced my door latch, so here are some observations and pictures for whoever can use them.  This is a ’99 Marquis and seems to be a little different than Fred’s 2000 model.  Thank you to all of you for your suggestions and information.  After reinstalling my Schlage deadbolt assembly it worked perfectly again, so I did not replace it.     

Here are some observations:

1- My door only has one latch.  The interior handle, exterior handle and latch are fairly close together.  The door was manufactured with a spot for a second latch, but the coach was produced with only one. 

2- The connecting rods have no threads or adjustments.  I didn’t need to adjust anything, but if you do, the only way to do it will be to modify the rods. 

3- The post that the latch closes around is rigid on this coach.  It does not float like many others apparently do.

4- The carpet on the door was secured with some type of rubberized adhesive to keep it from wrinkling (along with 6 screws).  It peeled off easily.  When putting it back, I used an aerosol craft adhesive that is meant to be either permanent or temporary, so it will be removable in the future.  This seemed to work very well.

5- I lubricated the latch with spray lithium grease and it works better now than it ever has.   

6- I had to remove the spring and activator from the new handle in order to get it into the cutout.  The hole was cut with close tolerance.  After putting the new handle in, you will reinstall the activator and spring.

7- The original handle is Trimark part number 030-0450.  They don’t make this anymore.  It has been replaced by Trimark 030-1450.  The new handle is almost identical except for a more rounded design.  It connected with the existing rods with no issue and completely covered the unpainted part on the outside of the door.