Hydro hot zone one not working

[Roger Bowton]

The hydro hot in our 06 Beaver works fine in the bedroom but no blower in the living area. I can feel heat at the register but no blower from any of the three registers. I have tried to look at R. Berkes forum but cannot get logged into it or find any thing on this forum related to the blowers.
Any suggestions would be appreciated.

Thanks
Roger

[Paul Schwalen]

Roger,

On our 03 Contessa there is a small switch located in the kitchen area that controls the fans for the front zone. The middle position is off and up/down puts the fans for that zone in either high or low speed.  Perhaps someone inadvertantly moved the switch to the middle position.

Paul

[Roger Bowton]

We only have  three switches    Electric   Diesel and Engine preheat

[Orman Claxton]

Hi Roger
Give me a call, maybe I can help you, sounds like a bad fan mtr.
Orman Claxton
Authorized A/H Service center

[Paul Schwalen]

Roger,

You should have a switch labeled 'Heater' on the top and 'Heater Craft' on the bottom.  This is a rocker switch- in center position it is off, in top position it is on high speed, in bottom position it is on low speed.
At least in our coach anyway it is as described.  Also, there is the same switch in the bedroom for that zone.

If we are using the Hydro Hot on heat cycle we must have these switches in either high or low position for the fans behind the coils on the Hydro Hot  to blow the air into the space.

Keep looking

Paul

[Butch Martin]

The chance of all the blowers being bad at once is unlikely.  So,  find the switch

Butch

[Jay and Raylene Todd]

Actually, if Rogers system is like mine, there is no high/off/low switch as there was in my 02 Patriot Thunder. Fan control comes from the Comfort Control box which controls the furnace, air conditioners and heat pumps and is the thermostat box where you set the temp you want in that zone. Roger should have two of these boxes, one in the front that controls zone 1 and one in the bedroom that controls zones 2 & 3. Fan speed should be automatic and is determined by the delta between what the sensor feels and what you have asked for in the zone. I suspect that the problem is, as Orman said, a bad fan motor.

Roger, the three switches that you mentioned above - Diesel, Electric & Engine Pre-Heat are for the operation of the Aqua Hot system itself. Other than getting the Aqua Hot operating so you have a heat source, they have no effect on the furnace function itself. You have to select heat or furnace on your thermostat for each of the zones you want heating before the blowers in the heat registers for that zone will operate.

[Joel Ashley]

Roger Berke's site is no longer free;  I think he was spending so much time at helping people online he opted for getting something for his trouble.  That's OK since he knows his hydronics.  But you should take Orman up on his offer, as he is our "resident" hydronic's expert.  Just click on his name in his post above, and send him a message.

Butch is right, though.  3 motors wouldn't go out at once.  There is likely a blown breaker or fuse in one common wire to them, or a common ground connection that's poor.  I'll see if I have a wiring diagram somewhere that may give a clue where to look, though diagrams don't usually do that.

Joel

Addendum:  no diagram found, but the manual indicates you should check the HydroHot control panel in the bay with the HydroHot.  If any of the 5 "Heating Zone Status" lamps are red instead of green, you've had a short in that zone's circuitry;  that means in either the thermostat or one of the heat exchanger units.  If the Low Voltage lamp is lit red also, see if just resetting the controller does the trick:  turn the Diesel switch off on the kitchen panel, wait a minute, and turn it back on.

Tech Support:  1-800-685-4298,  8-5 Mountain Standard Time.

[JimDyer]

Roger's site is not free any more, but if you buy any parts you get a free membership........I buy my filters and nozzles there since they are the cheapest place I've found, and the advice is invaluable.

[Roger Bowton]

Thanks for the help. I'll get the unit home this week from storage and  leave some feedback on resolution once it is working again.

Rohger

[Roger Bowton]

I am working with Roger now.  Things are a little strange. I unhooked the fan motors at the control panel and all lights were green so I hooked them back up and got the  zone two problem again so I unhooked the fan under the kitchen cabinet and the other two worked great.  Two hours later the problem was back with the one fan still unhooked?  I uncovered the one in the dash and it seems to turn free but I have no idea how to get to the one under the fridge.  There is a wall on one side with no access panel and the bath wall is on the left side with the vanity in the bath next to that wall with no access and I could not reach the heat exchanger from that one if tjhere was an access.  I could cut a hole in the right side but hate to do that until I am pretty sure that the fan motor located there is the poroblem. Our unit is an 06 Beaver monterey Laguna four. If anyone has had to work on the unit under the fridge I would really welcome some ideas for access.

Roger

[215]

Roger
I recently replaced my refrigerator with a residential unit. I found that you will need to remove the frig and the floor it sits on, to get to the fan.  The front panel supports the floor.  You could try and cut an access panel from the front and replace the grill with a larger one, but the hoses come from the aft left corner and are secured to the floor.  So even if you are able to remove the screws that fasten the fan to the floor, you will have difficulty reaching in to loosen the hose clamps holding the hoses and 12V wires, to enable you to pull the unit out.

Dennis

[Craig Rollins]

There are two drawers under my fridge. It appears to me that if I were to remove those drawers I would have access to everything under the fridge. Yours may be different because it's a year newer or you may have a bigger fridge thereby eliminating those drawers.

[Edward Buker]

If you disconnect the fan zone in question at the panel and you still get an error at the panel it would seem like the driver circuitry in the panel is at fault. If you can supply 12V to the fan wiring manually (I believe these are 12V fans but check first) and see if they run and draw normal current levels when running. If you cannot get them to run then you are correct in trying to fix the fan problem first.  You should also be able to switch wiring for two zones at the panel and see if the error stays with zone two or moves with the zone. Hope this helps.

Later Ed

[Roger Bowton]

Thanks to Roger Berke and ED the problem is resolved. Changed the living area to an unsed zone and all is well. This forum is great