Keith, thanks for your insights. I try hard to drain the water frequently. Last winter (in November) we had a awful experience. We had camped overnight and the outside air temp was 10 degrees. I started both the gen and the CAT twice during the night to hopefully ward off problems. After over two hours of driving, we suddenly lost air on the driver rear. Eventually, that air level valve was replaced. That solved the ride problem but now my dash green (wet) gauge permanently reads 30 psi higher than it should. Meanwhile, we did not use the air dump a single time over winter trying to ward off any more problems. (We were in generally 15 to 40 degree weather most of the winter).
When we arrived home in Nebraska about April 1 this year, the driver side started leaking down overnight. I could not locate a leak with soap and water so I changed the air level valve again for a test. (blew out the lines when they were disconnected) That was not the problem. The problem positively turned out to be a leaking seat on the 12V solenoid air dump valve. I ordered a new identical valve, blew out the lines, and it worked fine for 3 complete air dumps and re-air of the coach. I then took it on the highway for a two mile drive and returned home. Guess what? It was leaking again (the new one).
I have been running many tests. Some repeat and some don't! Have been flushing the air dump valve with air (both directions) and WD40 with mixed results.
Several people have suggested that I add a air dryer to help keep "crap" out of the tank and system as well as water and that is the path that I am pursuing at this time. Not sure if I will do it or not.
Meanwhile, if I want to give up "air dumping" entirely, I just crawl under the coach and turn those mechanical brass valves at the air dump valve output ninety degrees and NO LEAKS OF ANY KIND FOR DAYS!
BUT, I really want to use my system and am not sure what to do or try next.
Keep the suggestions coming. Any ideas on how to clean the seats on those cyclone valves?
Larry Fritz
Adams, Nebraska