I found it tricky to work around the well-placed factory heat tape on the solenoid when I removed the nuts holding the in and out lines to it. Replacing the nuts in the spring was even trickier, and I can see where it would be easy to cross thread them (soft metals involved), creating an almost certain leak. I was reluctant anyway to remove the heat tape for better access, because it seems a bit "delicate", and I didn't want to risk damaging it in any way.
Pumping antifreeze all the way up to the icetray, by using a screwdriver to force a cycle as per mfr. instruction, ultimately seemed to me to be an easier option, and more palatable than dealing with stripped threads/leaky fittings the next spring. The solenoid's heat tape became a backup protective device, but is really unecessary with the solenoid full of antifreeze; it is useful though for protecting the solenoid when the fridge is intermittently used during the winter, and antifreeze is less practical.
The option of turning the fridge on during cold snaps is viable, as long as there is no propane or electric failure while you're not watching. I'd think the heat in the rear compartment, generated by the proximity of the burner/electric heater and flue, would keep the tubes and solenoid from freezing, even to quite a low outside thermometer, and in spite of the access door louvers. The solenoid heat tape would protect it regardless, as long as the batteries were up to snuff.
Of course my postulations assume one's coach has 12v heat tape installed on the solenoid, and perhaps not all do.
Joel
