Entry door leaks, post pics of ur entry door seal

[William Brosam]

So every time it rains i get a step full of water, i am going to post some photos when i get home of how my door seal is working.

I had an RV shop look at it and they installed a new Inner door seal and all that has done it made it so you really have to slam the door and pull it in to use the dead bolt now. I had to adjust the lock mechanism to even get it to where the door latch would catch.

i know the top of my door sticks out more then it should i dont know if its due to a bend in the door or too much molding/seal up top or not.

so im asking for some photos of your doors/seals so i can see where my problem is.

ive already had to have the bottom step wood replaced from rotting with all this water coming in.

[Lee Welbanks]

One way you can check the door seal is to get a 2-3 ft piece of slick cloth about 2" wide. One person inside one out side, close the cloth in the door and saw the cloth back and forth until you find the spot where it is loose, I would guess it is at the top of the door would be the loose spot. You did state that the top is out further, doors tend to get tweaked over time.
I would think if it leaks water that bad it much make a bit of noise going down the road at speed.

[Roy Warren Co-Admin]

Our entry door was tweaked with the bottom out.  Looked very closely and saw the door was actually bent out at the bottom.  Placed a 4x4 at the top and bent the bottom in with force.  It took 3 people to bend it back to where the door was straight and would actually close properly.  Yours may be just the opposite and you need to place the 4x4 or 2x4 at the bottom and put heavy pressure at the top to straighten the door.  If it is out on the opening side and not the hinge side it could be a bent door.  Take a good look and it does work.  I really thought we were going to break the door in trying to bend it back straight, but it now latches and unlatches without us having to push on it. It also looks proper when closed.
Roy

[William Brosam]

heres my photos

[William Brosam]

you can see the large difference at the top,

[Jim Nichols]

Roy Warren is right on applying pressure with wood blocks.  Used to do it in the body shop. In your case I would loosen the window frame screws on the inside before applying pressure.  Was it that way when you bought it?

[William Brosam]

yes i bought it this way, was hoping that the door seal is the culprit and i could just replace it but i think then it will push it out further..

[Jim Nichols]

I don't think it will push out farther but the door may be hard to close if the striker is not adjustable. Before replacing the weatherstrip the door needs to fit the opening.  I would pull the old weatherstrip then fit, adjust or bend whatever it takes to get that door to conform to the opening. Only then replace that weatherstripping.

[Steve Huber]

Short term, you can probably use some weatherstripping to "channel" the water coming in at the top so it doesn't enter the coach. The white "D" shaped material available at HD or Ace with self adhesive backing works well for this.
Steve

[Keith Oliver]

From your pix, it looks like the PO added a rain gutter down the side of the coach in front of the door to keep the volume of water down.  That is an indication that the problem is not a recent occurrence.  You should ask at BCS to see if they have encountered this problem before, and, if so, how they dealt with it.

[Jim Nichols]

Do you have to use the inside door handle to release the limiting arm at the top of the door? Some how that door was pulled closed without releasing that arm or that arm came loose enough to block the door from closing.  If someone does not realize that has happened and keeps slamming the door it will bend. Maybe closing hard in a raining wind storm with the limiting arm wedged in the opening.  Look on top of the door edges and the opening in the same area for small gouges in the framing. If so the top of that door needs to be bent. I mean adjusted ( sounds better).

[William Brosam]

Do you have to use the inside door handle to release the limiting arm at the top of the door? Some how that door was pulled closed without releasing that arm or that arm came loose enough to block the door from closing.  If someone does not realize that has happened and keeps slamming the door it will bend. Maybe closing hard in a raining wind storm with the limiting arm wedged in the opening.  Look on top of the door edges and the opening in the same area for small gouges in the framing. If so the top of that door needs to be bent. I mean adjusted ( sounds better).

yes i have to open the door handle to release the lock mechanism, but so many people dont know that and grab the door handle anyways

i was up looking at the top door hinge yesterday, and it looks to me the arm was replaced as there is a cut off bolt on top that used to have a purpose but now does not.

so i think it was damaged and they replaced the hinge arm but not fixed the door. i am thinking about removing the outer weather stripping to see if i can get the door closed enough to be "inside" the outside skin or not.

[Jim Nichols]

Are you anywhere near Quartzsite or Phoenix? We will be at the Quartzsite rally then Gilbert,  Phoenix area. February 2 heading to the Southern Comfort rally. I could straighten the top of that door for you if still needed.

[William Brosam]

Are you anywhere near Quartzsite or Phoenix? We will be at the Quartzsite rally then Gilbert,  Phoenix area. February 2 heading to the Southern Comfort rally. I could straighten the top of that door for you if still needed.

im in Willis Texas about 35min north of houston atleast for another 40 days or so

[Jim Nichols]

We'll be in Texas the middle of February.  Not sure exact dates because my gps/secretary is still asleep.