Author Topic: Engine heat in bedroom  (Read 8614 times)

Tommy Gibson

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Engine heat in bedroom
« on: August 11, 2016, 08:44:35 PM »
New Beaver owner again. Our recently purchased 2007 Contessa with a 400 Cat gets really hot in the bedroom while traveling. The closet is extremely hot. We checked for insulation damage and seal damage but see nothing. No smell of fumes as with leaking exhaust. Is this normal and what can we do to insulate this problem?

Gerald Farris

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Re: Engine heat in bedroom
« Reply #1 on: August 11, 2016, 10:31:44 PM »
Tommy,
The condition is normal, especially if you driving in hot weather because there is no cooling in the bedroom and it is directly above a large 200 degree engine with a 1 1/2 inch floor. Installing additional insulation is problematic because of the high air flow, limited access, and restrictive area. Also any insulation that you use needs to be at least fire resistant if not fire proof, so Styrofoam is not a good choice.

Some owners run the generator and the house air conditioners as well as the dash air system to cool the coach, and this reduces the bedroom heat build-up. You can also add electric fans to the engine access door that are controlled by a thermostat to exhaust the hot air from the engine compartment like many of the earlier Beavers used, but although they help some, they are not a total cure for the problem. I just allow a half hour or more in cool down time before I go to bed after driving. However, in the winter time, a warm bedroom is nice after a long drive.   

Gerald

 

Chuck Jackson

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Re: Engine heat in bedroom
« Reply #2 on: August 11, 2016, 10:44:58 PM »
My coach is the same way. Just be sure to open the wardrobe doors when you set up camp for the night and it will cool off. I think it would help if you could get more air in and out of the engine compartment.
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2008 Beaver Contessa 40' Pacifica 425 Cat - Sold

Edward Buker

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Re: Engine heat in bedroom
« Reply #3 on: August 12, 2016, 12:41:24 AM »
Chuck,

I have the dual fan arrangement on the rear hatch of the engine compartment that blows out. They would be fairly useless while on the road but when you pull into a campsite and the engine is hot they are quite effective in moving the hot air out of the engine compartment. It stops the rising heat off the engine from stagnating in the ceiling area of the engine compartment for hours and therefor continuing to heat the floor. I just got this feature working on my coach and after coming into a campground I run them for 45 minutes to an hour or so. The pair of fans move a lot of air and pull 15 amps. One could add that feature with a relay, a switch, a fuse holder and wiring directly back to the battery. Just turn them on manually and off when you are done. The exhausted air is quite hot/warm so it has to be replacing the heated air with cooler air. The bedroom will be warm but the roof air conditioning is more effective sooner given you are not pumping so many BTUs into the bedroom from below once you are stopped.

Gerald is on the money when it comes to adding insulation. It is difficult at best, it needs to be mechanically fastened with severely limited access and the material needs to non flammable and non absorbing of oils. There are some marine products but they are expensive and not easy to install.

Later Ed

Jerry Emert

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Re: Engine heat in bedroom
« Reply #4 on: August 12, 2016, 12:48:34 AM »
Chuck,

I have the dual fan arrangement on the rear hatch of the engine compartment that blows out. They would be fairly useless while on the road but when you pull into a campsite and the engine is hot they are quite effective in moving the hot air out of the engine compartment. It stops the rising heat off the engine from stagnating in the ceiling area of the engine compartment for hours and therefor continuing to heat the floor. I just got this feature working on my coach and after coming into a campground I run them for 45 minutes to an hour or so. The pair of fans move a lot of air and pull 15 amps. One could add that feature with a relay, a switch, a fuse holder and wiring directly back to the battery. Just turn them on manually and off when you are done. The exhausted air is quite hot/warm so it has to be replacing the heated air with cooler air. The bedroom will be warm but the roof air conditioning is more effective sooner given you are not pumping so many BTUs into the bedroom from below once you are stopped.

Gerald is on the money when it comes to adding insulation. It is difficult at best, it needs to be mechanically fastened with severely limited access and the material needs to non flammable and non absorbing of oils. There are some marine products but they are expensive and not easy to install.

Later Ed
I replaced the insulation because it was falling off and crumbling away.  I replaced it with Dynamat under hood insulation.  3/4 inch thick, heat and sound resistant.  I believe it was heat resistant to 300 degrees.  It was self stick and pretty easy to put up.  Have about 7000 miles on the coach since I replaced it with no issues.
Jerry
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2003 Patriot Thunder Lexington 40' 3 Slides
C-12 Ser#  2KS89983
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Steve Huber

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Re: Engine heat in bedroom
« Reply #5 on: August 12, 2016, 04:41:03 AM »
Tommy,
I've got an 07 and yes the bedroom does get hot. I found my engine cover clamps were not putting any tension on the seals so adjusted them. I also applied foil back insulation (in the engine compartment) to the back of the closest and the area between the closet back  and the rear fiberglass. I used high temp adhesive https://www.amazon.com/DEI-010490-Temp-Spray-Adhesive/dp/B002Q2PR9E/ref=sr_1_1?s=automotive&ie=UTF8&qid=1470973123&sr=1-1&keywords=DEI+010490+Hi+Temp+Spray+Adhesive reinforced by aluminum strips and fender washers. No problems after 2.2k mile trip. Bedroom still heats up but not quite as bad. Gerald's comments are dead on. We run with generator and roof units on in the summer.
Steve
Steve
Coachless
2015- 6/24  07 Contessa Bayshore C9,  400 hp
2013-2015: 00 Marquis Tourmaline, C12, 425 hp
2005-2013: 01 Contessa Naples, 3126B, 330 hp

LaMonte Monnell

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Re: Engine heat in bedroom
« Reply #6 on: August 12, 2016, 03:34:54 PM »
I replaced all of my insulation with dynamat when the local CAT service had my radiator and CAC out for maintenance. I was able to stand right in the compartment to replace it all. I also reinforced it with half dollar sized washers and screws for an additional support. I used high temp glue for extra adhesion of the backing and used two layers under the closet floor and engine access lid. I get very little heat from this even in 100 degree summer heat, genset running along with engine too.
Lamonte & Patti Monnell
2001 Beaver Contessa Naples DP 40' 2 slides
CAT 3126B
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Steve Huber

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Re: Engine heat in bedroom
« Reply #7 on: August 12, 2016, 04:58:02 PM »
LaMonte,
You've got the advantage of a rear radiator. The fan insures better air flow in the engine compartment than a side radiator unit. Our 01 Contessa didn't radiate as much heat as the 07. Additionally, the C9 runs hotter than the 3126B, (~194F vs 206F respectively).
Steve
Steve
Coachless
2015- 6/24  07 Contessa Bayshore C9,  400 hp
2013-2015: 00 Marquis Tourmaline, C12, 425 hp
2005-2013: 01 Contessa Naples, 3126B, 330 hp

Jerry Emert

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Re: Engine heat in bedroom
« Reply #8 on: August 12, 2016, 05:30:27 PM »
After driving in 100+ weather this year we don't notice any excess heat in the closet or bedroom anymore after installation of the dynamat.  I didn't use any extra adhesive or screws/fender washers.  Our biggest problem is trying to keep the engine access cover in the bedroom between the bed and the closet closed.  I had to install a metal bracket on it.
Jerry
Jerry, Chief USN Retired
2003 Patriot Thunder Lexington 40' 3 Slides
C-12 Ser#  2KS89983
4000MH